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Barong Tagalog: Traditional Philippine Clothing Made of Pineapples 

By Anne Kim (Freelance writer and operator of PHILINLOVE, a website with cultural information about the Philippines)

The first step in making barong tagalog is to gather a large pile of the ‘Red Spanish’ pineapple’s long, dark-green leaves. Three things are required to turn these leaves into fabric: advanced techniques, dedication, and time. Pineapple leaves are tough, but by using a tool made of a hard material, e.g. coconut shell or clam shell, one can remove the outermost layer and expose the plant’s soft fibrous cells. This does not mean, however, that these fibrous cell fibers can be directly turned into fabric. They must first be washed in water to remove impurities and then trimmed until they turn white. The fibers must then be dried under natural sunlight until they feel fuzzy. After they are completely dry, the hair-thin fibers must then be individually rubbed and connected to one another, after which they have to be connected into a single long piece. It is only after this thread is wrapped around a spool to prevent tangling that it is ready to be woven. Weaving is done with a two-level standing loom, called paghaboe. Long hours seated at the paghaboe, which end in the weaver drenched in sweat from head to toe, produce a bolt of piña (pineapple) cloth that is light yellow in hue and naturally semi-transparent. Everything is now ready to make a barong. 

   A photo of South Korean President Moon Jae-in and First Lady Kim Jung-sook, taken in 2017 at a gala dinner held in the Philippines for the 50th anniversary of ASEAN, shows the presidential couple wearing light beige clothing. President Moon and First Lady Kim wore a barong tagalog and baro’t saya, respectively, in keeping with the tradition of wearing the traditional clothing of the event’s host country. Barong tagalog and baro’t saya are Philippine folk attire that are worn for formal occasions like weddings or funerals, with the barong tagalog usually referred to simply as a barong.

< pic 2 >Light yellow material woven with
piña (pineapple) fibers

< pic 3 >High-end barong
sold at a department store

    Barong tagalog is a men’s pullover dress shirt that is characterized by an elaborate hand-embroidered design on the chest. It is a long-sleeved shirt that does not fit very tightly and falls slightly below the waistline. Because it is made from a thin woven fabric that is almost completely translucent, the barong tagalog must be worn with a white t-shirt underneath. The barong is paired with belted dress pants, and it is considered good etiquette for the barong to not be tucked into the pants. 

   The traditional barong is made with a fabric woven with bast fibers extracted from pineapple, abacá (Manila hemp), or bananas. Of these, barong made of pineapple fiber are regarded as the highest in quality because, while they are thin to the point of near-complete transparency, they are lightweight, durable and comfortable. But barong woven entirely with naturally-derived fibers are usually extremely expensive due to the fastidious nature of the weaving process and the rarity of the materials. Because of this, barong are increasingly made with mixed fabrics that include silk, cotton, or polyester. 

   People began wearing barong during the Spanish colonial period, but the attire was popularized after the Philippines gained independence from the U.S. as the frequent attire of then-president Ramon Magsaysay. Ferdinand Marcos, who is known for his prolonged duration in power (21 years), also enjoyed wearing barong. It was Marcos who issued an official decree (Proclamation No. 1374) designating the barong tagalog as Philippine folk clothing in order to encourage its widespread use.

The content of this article may differ from the editorial direction of the ASEAN Culture House Monthly.