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On the Road

The Secret of a Good Community

On the Road 2024 SPRING

The Secret of a Good Community Yecheon County in North Gyeongsang Province is home to one of ten sanctuaries to which people retreated in turbulent times during the Joseon Dynasty. The area has a deep community spirit and an inviting natural environment that reflects Korea’s traditional beauty. ⓒ KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION As in most countries, Korea’s first settlements sprouted along rivers or in coastal areas, forming hubs of commerce and transportation. Yecheon County, a remote mountainous area in North Gyeongsang Province, is where South Korea’s longest waterway, the Nakdong River, meets two other streams, Naeseongcheon and Geumcheon. The area naturally attracted early inhabitants who relied on riverboats and trade. The Hoeryongpo Observatory, an elevated traditional pavilion near the top of 240-meter-high Mt. Biryong, provides an expansive view of one of the county’s best-known sites: the tear-shaped village of Hoeryongpo (lit. a place by the waterside where a dragon turns). The village takes both its name and its moniker — “an island within the mainland” — from the shape of the Naeseong Stream that nearly encircles it. The confluence of the Nakdong River and its two tributaries occurs about two kilometers from the observatory. Before the advent of railroads and motor vehicles, boats made pickups and deliveries at this intersection more than 30 times a day as travelers shuffled in and out. A flood in 1934 swept away everything except for Samgang Tavern and a 500-year-old spindle tree standing next to it. The tavern still exists, but an establishment next door continues its legacy by serving baechujeon (cabbage fritters) and makgeolli (traditional rice-based alcohol) that once satiated the hunger of wayfarers centuries ago. As postwar South Korea urbanized, its rural counties emptied out, with Yecheon losing more than half of its population. Today, thanks to tourist guidebooks, TV series, and social media posts, Hoeryongpo Village and its observatory are popular destinations. But my recent trip to Yecheon highlighted a lesser-known aspect of Korean history and culture that can’t be found in urban centers. Geumdangsil Village. Traditional houses from the Joseon Dynasty still retain their original appearance, and Bronze Age dolmens dot the village. Other attractions include a labyrinthine stone wall and a pine forest, designated as Natural Monument No. 469. ⓒ Yecheon County IDYLLIC HAVENS During the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910), Sipseungjiji (Ten Sanctuary Places) referred to the ten places that best embodied the traditional Korean concept of the ideal location to live. Most were tucked away in the recesses of the interior, well off the beaten track. With fertile soil and accessible distribution networks, they afforded residents a peaceful and prosperous life. Geumdangsil Village, a 40-minute drive from Samgang Tavern, was one of the Sipseungjiji. Bronze Age dolmens around the village testify to the area’s ancient legacy. Today, dozens of hanok, or traditional Korean houses, stand surrounded by a seven-kilometer-long labyrinthine stone wall, exuding a quaint charm. Taking a leisurely stroll through Geumdangsil, it is easy to understand why it became a preferred refuge. The village is surrounded by vast rice fields, with the majestic Sobaek Mountains to the north offer a towering backdrop. Geumdangsil was far enough from Joseon Dynasty transportation routes to be of little value to invaders, but not so far removed that it was inaccessible to suppliers. Some 900 pine trees spanning 800 meters buttress the village’s northwestern boundary. They were planted centuries ago by locals to guard against the frequent flooding of nearby Geumcheon. The forest is now protected as a natural monument for its scenic beauty and historical significance. In the spring, cherry blossoms transform the seven-kilometer road to Yongmun Temple into a billowy funnel of pink. Samgang Tavern is designated as Folklore Cultural Heritage No. 134 of North Gyeongsang Province. Centuries ago, it provided meals and lodging to peddlers and boatmen. ⓒ Shin Jung-sik A child trying its hand at beona dolligi, or saucer spinning, which features in traditional Korean folk performances, at the popular Samgang Tavern Ferry Festival. ⓒ Yecheon County SCHOLARLY HERITAGE Yecheon is essential to the history of Korean encyclopedias. Its noble families used their privileges and prosperity to pass on knowledge to others, rather than keeping it for themselves. When Gwon Mun-hae (1534–1591), a Joseon Dynasty civil court official, returned home to retire here, he sought a place to nourish his mind, body, and spirit. He found it in the valley now famous for its cherry blossom road: a vertical rock where he could perch and immerse himself in the atmosphere of the pine forest and the stream. The mist rising off the water in spring would have added a mysterious aura, evoking a divine paradise where immortals were believed to reside. In 1582, Gwon built a thatched-roof house on his idyllic spot. After his death, it was burned down during the Japanese invasions between 1592 and 1598, then reconstructed in 1612, only to be destroyed again in the winter of 1636 during the Qing invasion. The pavilion that currently stands at the site was built in 1870 and named Choganjeong. Gwon used his oasis to compile Encyclopedia of Korea, Arranged by the Rhymes of the Entries (Daedong unbu gunok), regarded as Korea’s first encyclopedia. It covers a range of topics from ancient times to the 15th century, including Korean history, geography, people, animals, plants, and folktales. Among the traditional units used to count old books, “gwon” corresponds to a chapter that divides a piece of writing based on distinct topics, while “chaek” refers to an individual book that is part of a larger collection. Gwon’s reference work is a compilation of 20 chapters (gwon) divided into 20 books (chaek). At the oasis Gwon Mun-hae created, his son Gwon Byeol (1589–1671) wrote Miscellaneous Records of Korea (Haedong jamnok), an encyclopedia detailing the stories of government officials that appeared in Daedong unbu gunok. Two mid-19th century scholars from Yecheon also created important works. Bae Sang-hyeon (1814–1884) compiled Encyclopedia of Laws and Regulations of Korea (Dongguk sipji), which covers a wide range of topics such as criminal law, rice farming, and geography, while Park Ju-jong (1813–1887) compiled Encyclopedia of Traditional Korean Culture (Dongguk tongji), documenting Joseon’s traditional culture and history in 14 subjects. Choganjeong, an archetypal Joseon pavilion, stands at the bend of a creek in peaceful harmony with the surrounding nature. ⓒ Yecheon County GIFTS THAT KEEP ON GIVING Yecheon forebears’ brilliant wisdom for the well-being and solidarity of the inhabitants is evident: two trees here are official landowners. One is a massive pine tree whose branches stretch 23 meters from east to west and 30 meters from north to south. The other, equivalent in size, is a hackberry tree called Hwangmokgeun. The nearly 650-year-old pine tree in Cheonhyang Village was the first in the country to own a piece of land. A childless man named Lee Su-mok, after much thought, decided to leave his 6,600-square-meter property to the pine tree, which he named Seoksongryeong, or “magical pine tree.” In 1927, the tree entered official land ownership records. Why didn’t Lee leave the land to a relative or close neighbor? In hindsight, it is easy to understand his rationale. Individuals and organizations lease the tree-owned land, and the profits are used to fund scholarships for local students. Bequeathing the land to a specific individual could have caused discord in the village, but its collective management ensured that the money collected in its name would be used for the community’s benefit. Today, almost 100 years later, Seoksongryeong is still accorded the respect of a human owner, and the villagers remain devoted to its care. They protect the tree from inclement weather, and a lightning rod has been placed to prevent it from being struck. Scores of students have been able to graduate thanks to the Seoksongryeong Scholarships, and many more continue to benefit from them. Hwangmokgeun stands in Geumwon Village, a 30-minute drive from Seoksongryeong. The hackberry tree, which gets its name from the yellow flowers blooming around it in May, owns 13,620 square meters of land, more than double that owned by Seoksongryeong. In this case, the land was initially the joint property of the community, and its ownership was transferred to Hwangmokgeun in 1939. The land here also generates rental income, which is used to award annual scholarships of around 300,000 won to the village’s middle schoolers. Geumwon Village has records of community donations dating back more than 100 years. Before meals, each household put aside a spoon of uncooked rice that was to be used to help less fortunate families. Among the records are the minutes of the 1903 Geumwon Community Association Meeting and the 1925 Savings and Relief Association Executive Meeting. Seoksongryeong, a massive pine tree in Cheonhyang, is considered the guardian of the village’s well-being and peace. It has an unusual shape with elongated branches three times as long as its height, which are propped up with stone and metal pillars. ⓒ Kwon Ki-bong "WORD TOMB" The wisdom of promoting community solidarity and peace by showing consideration for others culminates in southern Yecheon’s “word tomb.” What appears at first glance to be an ordinary hill is an artificial structure, built with rocks and soil, that resembles a huge tomb. Locals of yore decided to build it in order to “bury” words as a measure against conflicts in the village. After all, words are often the seeds from which conflict grows. What made Geumdangsil Village one of the Sipseungjiji and how does it continue to thrive? With its tranquil atmosphere, spacious fields, and an functioning distribution channels, Geumdangsil remains an ideal location. Instead of escaping the wars and political upheavals of the Joseon Dynasty, villagers today can escape the incessant stress and unforgiving competition of the cities. But the natural surroundings and geographical advantages are not the only factors. The atmosphere of understanding and consideration for others is just as essential. Traveling around Yecheon, this becomes apparent all around you. Residents of yore built a “word tomb” to bury words of conflict and pacify strife among villagers. Phrases engraved on the stone advise residents to be mindful about what they say. ⓒ Shin Jung-sik ⓒ KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION ⓒ KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION ⓒ KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION ⓒ KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION Kwon Ki-bong Writer

Muju – Pause in a Winter Wonderland

On the Road 2023 WINTER

Muju – Pause in a Winter Wonderland Postwar Korea adopted a ppali, ppali (hurry, hurry) mindset that remains embedded in its society today. But during winter, if you head to Muju County, deep in the southern interior of the Korean peninsula, you will encounter a hidden side of Korea that offers a respite from the frenetic pace. © KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION Mt. Deogyu is one of the most beautiful mountains in South Korea. In winter, trees are draped in a stunning blanket of hoarfrost, a product of repeated cycles of melting and freezing. © Lee Jae-hyung A Trip to Muju County in North Jeolla Prov­ince is an opportunity to revel in the charm of the Korean winter and opens your eyes to the beauty and value of nature. The highlight of a visit here is the topography of Mt. Deogyu National Park. The mountain, whose name means “abundance of vir­tue,” stretches for more than 30 kilometers, part­ly covering Muju County and anchoring Baekdu­daegan, the north-south mountainous spine of the Korean peninsula. Hyangjeokbong, Mt. Deogyu’s central peak, towers 1,614 meters above sea level and is com­plemented by numerous ridges with peaks more than 1,300 meters high, some 20 large and small waterfalls, dozens of ponds, and 13 famous obser­vation platforms. Below, Gucheondong Valley, whose name stems from a serpentine stream that flows through it, is known for its breathtaking scenery which draws visitors all year round. The most spectacular spots are collectively known as the “33 Vistas of Gu­cheondong.” GLASSY LANDSCAPE Mt. Deogyu is famous for its ski resort. In just 20 minutes, a cable car takes visitors close to Hyangjeokbong, the highest peak. Reservations are a must due to the steady stream of skiers, hikers, and sightseers. © KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION   The true beauty of Mt. Deogyu is best appreciated on foot. In winter, the snow on the tree branch­es melts slightly in the day’s sunlight, then freez­es again when the temperature drops at night. This repeated cycle of melting and freezing forms ice crystals known as hoarfrost that cloak trees, boulders, and rocks. From afar, the landscape ap­pears to be encased in clear glass. The hoarfrost at Mt. Deogyu is the thickest and most transparent in the region, thanks to the mountain’s high ridg­es and ideal humidity and wind conditions. When you push away the hoarfrost-covered branches, they knock against each other, creating an inde­scribably clear sound. Despite being the fourth-highest mountain in South Korea, it is not difficult to reach the sum­mit of Mt. Deogyu. Inexperienced hikers can take a 20-minute cable car ride to a platform at Seol­cheonbong, a peak at 1,520 meters. From there, you can overlook the center of Muju-eup, the town in the county’s north. The rest area rents out winter hiking gear, such as crampons, spats, and hiking staffs. When ready, visitors only have a 600-meter walk up to Hyangjeokbong and can en­joy the hoarfrost along the way. Gentle stairs help with the ascent. Mt. Deogyu is also home to the only Korean ski resort located inside a national park; it boasts the biggest ski slope and the steepest vertical drop in the country. Whether you prefer hiking or ski­ing, you will be able to appreciate why Mt. Deo­gyu is considered one of the most beautiful Kore­an mountains to visit in winter. The pristine natural environment around Mt. Deogyu and Muju County is simply breathtaking. The annual Muju Firefly Festival in early autumn celebrates the large firefly habitat by Namdae­cheon, a stream that flows through the northern part of Mt. Deogyu. At night, the fireflies illumi­nate the area in a massive mating ritual. In 1982, Muju’s habitat of fireflies and their prey was des­ignated as Natural Monument No. 322.   CONSERVATION At the Muju Firefly Festival, visitors can observe fireflies in their natural habitat and participate in eco-adventures. Set in a pristine environment, the festival promotes the peaceful coexistence of humans and nature. © KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION Environmental protection efforts in Korea began in earnest in the 1960s. In 1963, the National Re­construction Movement Headquarters proposed that the government bestow national park status onto Mt. Jiri, to the south of Mt. Deogyu. The fol­lowing year, residents of Gurye County near Mt. Jiri promoted and raised funds for the plan. Their efforts paid off in 1967, when Mt. Jiri was designat­ed as the country’s first national park. Mt. Deogyu gained national park status in 1975, making it the tenth Korean national park at the time. The Korean fir, which grows at an altitude of 1,300 meters at Mt. Deogyu, is familiar to most Koreans as it is a popular Christmas tree. The tall European spruce may be a more common choice for outdoor Christmas trees, but the Korean fir is preferred indoors because of its smaller size and the larger spaces between its branches, which al­low for more room to hang decorations. Unfortunately, the Korean fir may become a rare sight. In 2013, the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) classified it as an endangered species. To protect it, Yuhan-Kimber­ly, Ltd., a joint venture of Korean pharmaceutical company Yuhan Corporation and U.S. paper-based consumer product giant Kimberly Clark, launched a Korean fir conservation project with the Baek­dudaegan National Arboretum in 2021. The initia­tive can be compared to building a “Noah’s Ark” for the imperiled tree. Nearly 6,800 seedlings are being grown in the arboretum’s greenhouse, and 120,000 Korean fir seeds were collected in 2022 to further increase this number. The plan is to transplant young Korean firs onto Mt. Deogyu. The Muju Film Festival held at Muju Deungnamu Stadium. Some 500 wisteria vines reach all the way up to the roof of the bleachers and provide a natural shade for spectators. © Muju County “BACKUP” SITE There is another place in Muju that is dedicat­ed to preservation. It is the royal historical re­pository on Mt. Jeoksang, which is located inside Mt. Deogyu National Park. The Joseon Dynasty, which ruled Korea from the late 14th to the early 20th centuries, placed great importance on keep­ing historical records. The purpose was to pre­vent the tyranny of the king, who wielded ab­solute power, as well as to pass down knowledge and expertise to future generations. The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty, which contain daily accounts encompassing 472 years of the dynasty’s history, are the most prominent record. They are not on­ly the longest-running historical record of any single dynasty in the world, but the only case where the original volumes remain intact to this day. In recognition of their value, they were des­ignated as a national treasure of Korea in 1973 and inscribed in the UNESCO Memory of the World Register in 1997. How could the annals be preserved in their original state over many centuries, surviving wars, fires, and countless natural disasters? This can be attributed to the Joseon government’s ef­forts of creating several “backups.” One set was kept in the capital and another three or four in different places across the country. In addition, every three years, the books were aired under the sun to prevent mold growth and damage from sil­verfish. The annals faced dire situations. At the end of the 16th century, when Joseon fought off Japanese invasions with the help of Ming China, all but one copy of the annals were destroyed in a fire. The surviving copy had been stored at the Jeonju repository, about 50 kilometers southwest of Mu­ju, and the government later restored the origi­nal number of five copies and dispersed them to repositories across the nation. One of them was the repository on Mt. Jeoksang, an ideal location thanks to its proximity to a cliff that could pro­vide protection from invaders. In addition, Mt. Jeoksang Fortress, which had been built 1,500 years earlier, was reconstructed to fortify areas with gently sloping terrain. In the early 20th century, the annals that were stored at the Mt. Jeoksang repository were re­located to Seoul, but they mysteriously disap­peared during the Korean War. Despite this loss, the extensive collection, comprising a total of 1,893 volumes and 888 books, has been passed down from generation to generation, thanks to the dedicated efforts to create backups. Taekwondowon is dedicated to taekwondo, the traditional Korean martial art, with facilities for competitions, training, education, and research. It also offers a “taekwondo stay” to the general public. © Muju County HARMONY WITH NATURE Muju is not just a travel destination; it is also a place providing a deeper understanding of the breadth and depth of Korean society’s efforts to coexist with nature. One example is Muju Deungnamu Stadium in the southern part of Mu­ju-eup. It was designed so that the 500 or so wis­teria vines that climb up its steel frame provide spectators with shade during summer and shelter from the snow during winter. Modern architecture places more emphasis on practicality and functionalism, but there is one aspect it frequently overlooks: the interaction be­tween humans and nature. Modern architecture tends to exude an overbearing aura as if wanting to dominate nature, and landscaping can be seen as an effort to create an artificial form of nature. The stadium’s architect, Chung Guyon (1945–2011), had a different idea. Rather than artificially transforming and utilizing nature as an architec­tural component, he let nature take center stage. Nature is constantly changing. Flowers bloom in spring, trees become lush in summer, leaves fall in autumn, and trees turn bare in winter. The ar­chitect used wisteria, whose branches are beauti­ful even when bare, to create a stadium that con­nects with nature. Taking the stairs up to the bleachers and walking behind the back row re­veals the beauty of the stadium. A trip to Muju is an opportunity to discover that Korean society has not been completely fo­cused on moving forward at breakneck speed. It has also sought ways to interact and live in har­mony with nature. As winter is coming to Muju, there is no better time to enjoy its rich history and natural beauty. From left, © Muju County, © Muju County, © Muju County, © KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION Kwon Ki-bong Writer

Koreans’ Spirit Shines in Seosan

On the Road 2023 AUTUMN

Koreans’ Spirit Shines in Seosan Situated on the western coast of Korea, Seosan boasts a unique topography created by extreme tidal waves, a rich cultural heritage, and reminders of the area’s importance to the defense of the nation. ⓒ Seosan City In September 2021, a promotional video for Seosan from the Feel the Rhythm of Korea series showed farm vehicles racing across a broad expanse of mud. Titled “Mud Max,” the video is a parody of the desert chase in the 2015 film Mad Max: Fury Road, directed by George Miller. The video went viral and Seosan, the city on the northwestern end of South Chungcheong Province, and its iconic surroundings became a popular tourist destination. Juxtaposed to Korea’s wealth of mountains and hills, the Seosan area is called Naepo (firth) for its large and small tidal gullies that extend far inland. They are the product of one of the most extreme tidal ranges in the world. Garorim Bay, which lies in northern Seosan, has an average tidal range of nearly five meters. The tide can rise up to a staggering height of eight meters. BOUNTY OF SEAFOOD Yudu Bridge connects Ung Island to the mainland. The 600-meter span disappears as the tide rises, making it a popular tourist destination. The bridge is scheduled for demolition in 2025 as part of an ecosystem restoration project. The tidal range of Seosan’s coastal waters has been the source of abundant marine resources. In 2016, the semi-enclosed inner Garorim Bay was designated as Korea’s first Marine Species Protected Area, and the 25th Marine Protected Area overall, for its rich biodiversity and pristine waters; in 2019, the area was expanded to 92 square kilometers. The place featured in the promotional video is the Ojiri Tidal Flats at Garorim Bay. When flooded at high tide, a variety of fish can be caught, including gizzard shad and rockfish; after the tide ebbs, the endless mud flats reveal the country’s largest cache of Ecklonia cava, a type of brown algae commonly known as paddle weed. Clams and cockles can also be found there. Fall is the season for small octopus, which was documented in the Geography Section of the Annals of King Sejong’s Reign (Sejong sillok jiriji), published in 1454. When Pope Francis visited Korea in 2014, he was served a bowl of small octopus porridge. He liked it so much that he had two more helpings. To watch fishers catch small octopus, head to Jungwangri to the south of the Ojiri Tidal Flats. They first look for air holes, made by octopi to breathe while submerged in the mud, and then dig them up. In the autumn, visitors can try their luck at Garorim Bay. At Ung Island, between Ojiri and Jungwangri, the bridge connecting the island with the mainland 600 meters away appears and disappears as the tide ebbs and flows. This so-called “parting of the sea” occurs twice a day. However, a new bridge is scheduled for completion in 2025, so you had better hurry if you want to witness this.   DEFENSIVE BULWARK Garorim Bay, which lies adjacent to Seosan, provides rich and varied marine resources to local residents. The abundance of the sea became a source of envy and avarice on land. The vast plain between the mountains to the east and the sea yielded bumper crops, making Seosan a frequent target of marauding pirates. Finally, in 1416, King Taejong (r. 1401-1418) decided to turn the Haemi region to the east of Mt. Dobi into a defensive bulwark. Seosan thus assumed the role of the country’s front defense line in addition to being one of its most important agricultural regions. Protracted fortification efforts began and the army unit in charge of central Korea was relocated to Haemi. Haemieupseong, a walled town in the heart of Haemi, about 12 kilometers outside of Seosan, housed the military high command. Its location on flat ground contrasted with other Joseon Dynasty fortifications built on hills and mountains. Haemieupseong is one of the best-preserved fortifications in the country. It contains relics related to the persecution of Catholics. To ward of enemies, thorny trifoliate orange trees were planted along the walls of the fortress, earning it the nickname Taengjaseong, or trifoliate orange fortress. Although part of the imposing walled town was torn down for urban development, it is among the best-preserved fortifications in the country along with Gochangeupseong in North Jeolla Province and Naganeupseong in South Jeolla Province. The South Gate and sections of the wall have remained intact, but other buildings have been reconstructed. The wall is five meters high and stretches approximately 1.8 kilometers. It has two sawtooth-like structures that jut out. They are called chi (雉), after the Chinese character for pheasant, a bird known to hide in the bushes when sensing danger. The extensions served as platforms for early warning and tactical defense. Inside the walled town, there is a pagoda tree estimated to be well over 300 years old. Surrounding it are the old provincial government office, a guest house where visiting government officials stayed, and a prison. All are reconstructions. Up a short hill to the left of the government office is Cheongheojeong, a pavilion that was rebuilt in 2011. It offers a panoramic view of the entire area. The pine forest nearby is the perfect place to take a leisurely stroll. Haemieupseong enabled the inland regions to enjoy extended peace. Celebrating this history, the 20th Seosan Haemieupseong Festival is scheduled for early October 2023, ending a four-year hiatus caused by the COVID-19 pandemic.   CULTURAL HERITAGE Seosan also boasts a rich cultural heritage that is in harmony with nature. Some of the most notable sites are Gaesim Temple, Ganwol Hermitage, and the Rock-carved Buddha Triad in Yonghyeon-ri. Daeungjeon is the main hall of Gaesim Temple. Designated as Treasure No. 143, it is known for its outstanding architectural aesthetics. Simgeondang, the monks’ residence, which beautifully blends with the natural surroundings, is also worth visiting. Built in 654 CE, toward the end of the Baekje Kingdom, Gaesim Temple is ensconced in a thick forest between Mt. Sangwang and Mt. Illak. Its history, spanning almost 1,400 years, and its aesthetic value make it one of the four major temples in South Chungcheong Province. Every step of the journey to Gaesim Temple is a beautiful experience. The Sinchang Reservoir, which you can see before reaching the temple, is the region’s main source of irrigation. On autumn mornings, it is enveloped in an auspicious shroud of fog that creates a mysterious aura for visitors. From the Iljumun (one pillar gate) at the front entrance, a 500-meter forest path leads to the temple. At the end of the path is a log split in half to cross over a rectangular pond. Next to it is a stone post engraved with the word “gyeongji,” which means “looking at your reflection in the water and examining your thoughts and reflecting on yourself.” This fits with the name of the temple, which means “opening your heart and washing away your worldly cares and desires.” The temple’s unpretentious simplicity makes it stand out. The Wooden Seated Amitabha Buddha is one of the oldest wooden Buddha statues in Korea, and the Daeungjeon, the main hall, retains its original appearance. Among the temple structures, the most striking is Simgeondang, the monks’ residence. It is believed to have been repaired around the same time as Daeungjeon, with the kitchen having been attached to the side at a later date. The pillars made of crooked logs are the most eye-catching feature of the building. Their natural shape has been preserved with minimal trimming. The pillars have also not been painted as was the custom, which allows hairline cracks to be visible, a testimony to their longevity. Blending harmoniously with the fall foliage, the residence adds an idyllic, cozy atmosphere to the temple’s dignified presence. The Rock-carved Buddha Triad in Yonghyeon-ri, carved on a massive bedrock at the foot of Mt. Gaya opposite Gaesim Temple, is similarly simple and unadorned. It wears a playful, inviting expression. What is particularly captivating is the different aura it exudes during the day. Since the carving is deep and the facial features distinct, the angle of the sun alters its appearance. The rock carving remained hidden for 1,500 years; it was only discovered in 1959 and designated a national treasure in 1962. In reference to the ancient kingdom that once occupied the area, it became known as the “Smile of Baekje.” The Rock-carved Buddha Triad was carved between the late 6th and early 7th centuries. Particularly captivating is the Buddha’s smile; it appears to change as sunlight hits the face at different angles. Another must-visit place in Seosan is Ganwol Hermitage, which was also featured in the “Mud Max” video. It is located on Ganwol Island, Seosan’s southernmost island, in Cheonsu Bay. Like on Ung Island, when the tide ebbs twice a day, a 30-meter-wide path is exposed, allowing visitors to reach the island on foot. During high tide, a boat can be used instead. The island is called yeonhwadae (lotus pedestal) because it resembles a lotus flower when the road disappears under water. Whether at low or high tide, it is beautiful and picturesque, and at sunset, the hermitage feels even more serene and peaceful.   INDOMITABLE SPIRIT The Seosan A-Region Seawall to the east of Ganwol Hermitage is worthy of note. Building the seawall to reclaim dry land was a massive undertaking because the extreme tidal range of the area wreaked havoc on its construction. Even boulders the size of cars would be swept away by the strong currents, with speeds exceeding eight meters per second. To close the last section of the wall, a 230,000- ton Swedish oil tanker, waiting to be scrapped in the Port of Ulsan, was sent on its last journey and deliberately sunk to block the troublesome tide. The rest of the construction was completed smoothly whenever the current was weak. After 15 years and three months, the project was finally completed in 1995. The seawall stretches 7.7 kilometers, creating more than 10,000 hectares of reclaimed farmland. At the time, this was equivalent to one percent of Korea’s total agricultural land. This vast farming area yields enough rice to feed 500,000 people for about a year. A trip to Seosan is not only a journey into its past, but an occasion to reflect on Korea today through its people who champion environmental sustainability while taking full advantage of the rich marine resources. Haemieupseong and the Buddhist cultural heritage exemplify the culture of valuing not just individual happiness but the well-being of the community as a whole. Finally, the area’s large-scale land reclamation is a testament to the dauntless spirit of the Korean people.     Kwon Ki-bong Writer Lee Min-hee Photographer

Idyllic Destination Shrouded in Heritage

On the Road 2023 SUMMER

Idyllic Destination Shrouded in Heritage Yangyang in Gangwon Province has a bit of everything. There are hills with beautiful scenery; hiking trails where you can stop and dabble your feet in clear streams; Naksan Temple, which has survived through a tumultuous history; and one of the best surfing beaches in Korea. ⓒ gettyimagesKOREA The slower you hike the mountain pass Hangyeryeong, the better, travelers say. That way you can soak in the spectacular scenery with every measured step. As you make your way up the winding road, it feels as if you are connecting with another world. For motorists, this route is one of the best drives in Gangwon Province and should not be missed, even if it means taking a bit of a detour. This mountain pass is also known as Osaengnyeong, which means “a mountain range embracing a bitterly cold valley.” With an altitude of over 1,000 meters, it is the highest pass in the area. Yi Jung-hwan, a scholar of the late Joseon Dynasty, called it one of the six famous mountain passes of Gangwon Province in Ecological Guide to Korea (Taengniji) written in 1751. HILLS AND ARCHITECTURE Mt. Seorak is one of the country’s most beloved mountains. The beautiful Jujeon Valley situated in Namseorak, or Osaek District, to the south of Hangyeryeong, is a popular destination among hikers. The deep valley is cool even in midsummer, and the oddly shaped rocks create a spell-binding landscape. At the top is the Hangyeryeong Service Area, a remarkable building erected in the early 1980s. Its roof is low so that it blends in with its natural setting without disturbing the atmosphere of Hangyeryeong, and the heights of different parts of the building are adjusted to create visual harmony with the surrounding mountains. Designed by architects Kim Swoo-geun (1931–1986) and Ryu Choon-soo, the building takes the surroundings into careful consideration. Kim’s approach is renowned for its outstanding aesthetics of mindfulness. Unusually low-hanging eaves afford a clear view of Mt. Seorak and its green landscape in the background, and the terrace has a long reach. The open interior also allows uncluttered views of the East Sea beyond fantastic rock formations. The first floor is designed to be as open as possible, so that passersby can stand under the eaves or come inside to escape rain and strong winds. It was constructed to recall an alleyway that invites an aimless, leisurely stroll. On an inside column, peer recognition is found on a metal plaque stating that the building won the 1983 Korean Institute of Architects Award. This is a tribute to its attentive design, which provokes thoughts about how humankind treats nature.   HOT SPRING AND HIKING Yongso Falls at the entrance of Jujeon Valley is only ten meters high, and the water of the pond underneath just seven meters deep. Legend has it that two 1,000-year-old mythical creatures, one female and one male, became dragons and tried to ascend to heaven. But while the male succeeded, the female failed and turned into a rock and waterfall. The winding road from the Hangyeryeong Service Area down to the east leads to the Yaksuteo Hiking Support Center at the entrance of Osaek Mineral Spring. Discovered by a monk in around 1500, it produces 1,500 liters of water per day. In recognition of its historicity and uniqueness, it was designated as a Natural Monument in 2001. There is a theory that the Korean name of the spring, Osaek Yaksu, which means “mineral water of five colors,” originated from Osaekseok Temple, situated at the top of Jujeon Valley. It is said that trees with flowers of five colors grew around the temple. Therefore, the spring was named Osaek Mineral Spring, the village Osaek-ri, and the pass Osaengnyeong. Of course, all of this is just legend. At first, the mineral water looks transparent, but it tastes metallic due to its high iron content. If left to sit for a long time, the water oxidizes and changes color from transparent to gray, then dark brown, ocher, and finally red. Hence the name “five-color mineral spring.” Osaek Mineral Spring is the perfect starting point for hiking Jujeon Valley. For a one-day hike, there is a 3.5-km trail that continues to Seongguk Temple, newly built on the site of Osaekseok Temple, past Seonnyeotang, or the “fairy lake,” and up to Yongso Falls. It takes about two to three hours to get there and back. Flagging hikers can recharge by soaking their feet in the cold water of a stream that noisily flows through the lush valley. The 700-meter section between Osaek Mineral Spring and Seongguk Temple is barrier-free, enabling elderly people and others who may have trouble moving to easily enjoy the magnificent scenery of Jugol Valley and even Mt. Seorak National Park. The Osaek Greenyard Hotel near Jujeon Valley has hot spring baths filled with Osaek mineral water. The carbonated hot spring offers carbonic acid, calcium, and iron to help relieve pain, fatigue, and gastrointestinal symptoms. ⓒ Osaek Greenyard Hotel After returning to Osaek Mineral Spring, a soak in the hot spring water soothes away weariness. The Osaek Greenyard Hotel, which has recently been remodeled, has hot spring baths filled with Osaek mineral water as well as a jjimjilbang, a Korean-style dry sauna. For those feeling hungry after a bath in the hot springs, there are some 20 restaurants between the hotel and Osaek Mineral Spring. They offer a wide variety of dishes made with wild greens that cannot be found in city restaurants as well as dishes featuring dried pollack, which has been dried through repeated freezing and thawing. The whole meal tastes better when accompanied by some Gangwon Province makgeolli (cloudy rice wine) made with corn kernels or deodeok (bellflower) roots.   Hongnyeon Hermitage of Naksan Temple is a favorite place to watch the sunrise on the east coast. Perched on top of a sea cave, the seawater flows in and out right underneath. People pray in front of the Haesu Gwaneum (Avalokiteśvara Bodhisattva) Sarira Stupa at Naksan Temple. The temple is not only famous for its breathtaking scenery, but is also known as a “prayer sanctuary” or “gwaneum sanctuary” where many come to pray for their wishes. SLEEPY YET VIBRANT Naksan Temple has a history of more than 1,300 years. It is home to many cultural treasures, including a seven-story stone pagoda that had only three stories when it was initially built in 1467. Hongnyeon Hermitage exemplifies how nature and a culturally meaningful structure can form a beautiful ensemble. The building symbolizes the history of Naksan Temple, which was founded by the great monk Uisang after his legendary encounter with Avalokiteśvara Bodhisattva. It presents an exquisite sight, sitting precariously on a cliff facing the waters of the East Sea. Tragically, more than 20 of Naksan Temple’s buildings were burned by fires that swept through the area in 2005. The melted bronze temple bell on display at the Uisang Memorial Hall is a lasting reminder of that painful time. But the temple is indomitable. It has been destroyed and rebuilt many times since it was founded in 671. The losses of 2005 should not be thought of with sadness only. Opposite the melted bronze bell, a cello and violin are displayed, made from a building’s wooden beam that remained after the fire. The instruments seem to speak the locals’ desire to carry on their lives without buckling under adversity. BEACHES AND PAVILION If Naksan Temple is the height of static beauty, the bevy of surf shops around Jukdo Beach and Ingu Beach show the vitality of Yangyang. Around 70 percent of all surf shops in Korea are found in Yangyang, where the beaches have particularly clear water and waves of a decent size and frequency. In 2015, Hajodae Beach opened a one-kilometer stretch that became Korea’s first beach exclusively for surfing. Commonly known as “Surfyy Beach,” it is so crowded from late July to early August that people say it is filled “half with water and half with surfers.” Lessons are available even for complete beginners, and many travelers stay a few days to learn. Between the beaches, in the Hajodae area, is Jukdo Pavilion. It sits on Mt. Jukdo, and the views from the forest trail and observatory are wonderful. Relaxing in the shade with a book, enjoying the sea breeze, one wonders if there could be a more perfect place to read. Surfyy Beach on the northern section of Hajodae is Korea’s first beach exclusively designated for surfing. Visitors can relax while taking in the exotic scenery, enjoying beach parties, or camping. Surfyy Beach operates a surf school with classes for all levels, from beginner to upper intermediate. It also offers several other experience programs such as surf yoga, longboarding, and snorkeling Hajodae is so beautiful that it has been designated as a scenic spot by the government. Looking out to sea from the pavilion, one can see a pine tree standing majestically on a huge rock. It is no ordinary pine tree, and most Koreans recognize it without ever having traveled here. When public television networks play the Korean anthem at the beginning and end of their daily broadcast, the tree appears in the accompanying video, just as the second verse begins. In some ways, the tree seems to stand for Yangyang itself as a travel destination that has it all — mountains, valleys, the sea and beaches, and time-honored cultural heritage.     Kwon Ki-bong Writer Lee Min-hee Photographer

Discovery in the Familiar

On the Road 2023 SPRING

Discovery in the Familiar What makes travel so appealing? New scenery, total rest and relaxation, delicious food, and shopping top many lists. When they are coupled with finding something unfamiliar in the familiar, the pleasure is doubled; a new meaning is discovered. ⓒ BUYEO-GUN Many people think of Buyeo as a place with a sorrowful history. Though the city had a brilliant, flourishing culture, it is rather known for being the last capital of the Baekje Kingdom. Today, the charm of the fallen state saturates Buyeo. Finding its real treasures is easier than expected; they lie beneath familiar, everyday sights. WINDOW TO THE WORLD The nearly 12-kilogram Gilt-bronze Incense Burner of Baekje is designated as National Treasure No. 287. Excavated in 1993 from an ancient tomb, it is kept at the Buyeo National Museum. The Geum River flows for 400 kilometers, making it the third-longest river in Korea. It runs through the center of Buyeo, where residents call it the Baengma River — “the longest river in Baekje.” The name refers to the 16-km section near the Buso Mountain Fortress. Until the late Joseon Dynasty, vessels of all sizes plied the waterway, including ships that traveled 70 kilometers upstream from the Yellow Sea. Their gateway was the Gudeurae ferry landing, between the river and the fortress. Today, an estuary weir restricts traffic to only ferries. Baekje vacillated between being a rival and an ally with its neighboring states, Goguryeo and Silla, and it engaged China and Japan through maritime trade. The strategy led to a flourishing economy and developed culture, the pillars of Baekje’s survival for almost seven centuries, from 18 BCE to 660 CE. In the process, the name of the ferry landing, which originated from Kudara, the Japanese name for Baekje, meaning “the homeland” or “big nation,” became synonymous with the kingdom of Baekje. The name “Gudeurae” is rarely used in Korea today. BEHIND THE ROCK Baekhwa Pavilion is built on a cliff by the Geum River. Legend has it that 3,000 court ladies threw themselves off the cliff when Baekje fell to rival kingdoms in the seventh century. A 30-minute ferry ride on the Baengma River takes you to the Goran Temple wharf, where the path to the Buso Mountain Fortress begins. The path leads past Goran Temple, said to have been built in the memory of vengeful souls of Baekje, and up to Baekhwa Pavilion, which allows a spectacular view over the river below. Nakhwaam, or the Rock of Falling Flowers, is a cliff just below the pavilion. When Baekje fell to the Silla-Tang alliance under its last monarch, King Uija, legend has it that 3,000 court ladies threw themselves off the cliff, like flowers falling into the water. The name Nakhwaam was coined a thousand years after the fall of Baekje. Though King Uija is fixed in Korean folklore as an incompetent leader and womanizer, Samguksagi (History of the Three Kingdoms), written in the 12th century during the Goryeo Dynasty, describes him in glowing terms. It says, “[The king] was magnificent and intrepid, full of mettle and resolve. […] He served his father with filial piety and loved his brothers deeply. All the people called him Haedong Jeungja.” “Haedong” refers to the Korean peninsula and “Jeungja” to Zengzi, one of the disciples of Confucius, with whom he was counted as one of the five sages of the East. According to the history book, King Uija not only had the dignity of a true monarch but also the character and learning comparable to the Confucian sages. It seems King Uija was an eminent leader in some respects, and a capable strategist, able to seize forty Silla fortresses and isolate Silla through diplomatic means. However, he could not repel a joint invasion of Silla and Tang forces, who toppled Buyeo and took the monarch to China. Nevertheless, Baekje forces rallied under his son, King Pung, and fought the Silla-Tang alliance for three years. Facts and truth do not always agree, but the valor of the Baekje people, who fought to the end, lives on in the tragically beautiful name of Nakhwaam. ACME OF BAEKJE CULTURE From the outside, Geungnakjeon (Hall of Paradise) at Muryang Temple appears to be a two-story structure but the interior is one expanse. A five-story stone pagoda and stone lantern stand in single file in front of the hall, symbols of Baekje’s high culture. Where can the prosperity of Baekje be seen? Walking past Saja Pavilion, sitting on the highest point of the Buso Mountain Fortress, the site of the military storehouse and barracks, and Samchung Shrine, dedicated to the last three loyal officials of Baekje — Gyebaek (?–660), Seongchung (?–656), and Heungsu (dates unknown) — the fortress is left behind. Not far away is the Buyeo National Museum. The scale and importance of the artifacts in the collection belie the museum’s modest size. Thirty years ago, around 4 p.m. in the afternoon on December 12, 1993, when the sun was slowly sinking, excavation of the tumuli cluster in Neungsan-ri, Buyeo, was wrapping up. At that moment, in a mud pit some 1.20 meters deep, there appeared an outsized incense burner — over 60 cm high and weighing almost 12 kg. Barely three years later, the Gilt-bronze Incense Burner of Baekje was named a national treasure in recognition of its artistic value and historical significance. Initially, some wondered if it was not a Chinese item. Stylistically, it basically resembled Chinese incense burners, and while Baekje was a Buddhist nation, the incense burner had a strongly Taoist feel. There is no doubt, however, that it was made in Baekje. It was discovered at a blacksmith’s site adjacent the Neungsan-ri tumuli. And unlike Chinese incense burners, the Baekje burner was made with gilt-bronze and topped with a figurine playing the geomungo, a zither native to Korea. Besides the geomungo, some other lesser known musical instruments are featured on the lid. They include the jongjeok (vertical f lute) and wanham (plucked lute similar to a guitar), a jar-shaped drum, whose origin can be found in Southeast Asia, and the baeso (similar to pan pipes), a wind instrument of the northern nomadic peoples. This combination of instruments reflects the fusion of foreign elements, such as the incense burning culture of the Arabic and Western regions and the incense burners of China, with Korean traditional culture, Buddhist philosophy, and belief in the Taoist immortals. The presence of these motifs on the lid attests to Baekje’s skill at building on its strengths and overcoming its limitations through international exchange. The artistry and originality of the Baekje incense burner hints at the driving force behind Baekje’s cultural and economic development. Baengma River’s name means “the longest river in Baekje.” Tourists can take in the sights of Buyeo by cruising the river on a ferry, traditional sailboat, or Korea’s first amphibious bus. Baekje Cultural Land is a historical theme park featuring a reproduction of Baekje’s Sabi Palace. It gives an overview of Baekje’s culture and history through the living spaces of Sabi Palace and Neung Temple. © BUYEO-GUN IN MEMORY OF A POET Shin Dong-yeop House and Museum researches the life and works of the poet and oversees the Shin Dong-yeop Literary Award, which has been bestowed on writers of all genres. Buyeo is not only important as the capital of Baekje more than a thousand years ago. Some 800 meters to the northwest of the Buyeo National Museum is the birthplace of the poet Shin Dong-yeop (1930–1969) and a museum built in his honor. Although only active over the last ten years of his life, Shin left a definitive mark on the Korean literature scene before he died. Totally committing himself to the April 19 Revolution in 1960, the country’s first democratization movement, he left behind works that helped motivate succeeding writers to seek alternatives and conquer dictatorship. For example, he discussed the unification of South and North Korea, while criticizing the authoritarianism and opportunism that pervaded Korean society and battling for democracy. The poet’s legacy continues through the annual Shin Dong-yeop Literary Award. His family and the publishing company Changbi established the award in 1982, despite the oppression of the then dictatorial government. Unlike most literary awards, writers of any genre are considered. The goal is to encourage and support writers carrying on the spirit of the late poet. Shin Dong-yeop’s spirit as a poet, his belief that literature should contribute to making both individuals and society better, pervade the Shin Dong-yeop House and Museum. Indeed, the museum is like a eulogy to the poet, who overcame the limitations of a literary circle caught up in aestheticism and showed what it means to be an artist who participates in society. LAIDBACK VIBES Jaon-gil, near the Gyuam ferry landing, is lined with bookstores, craft workshops, cafés, and restaurants. The name reflects the goal of bringing life and warmth back to the area, which was once a distribution hub. A good place to close a trip to Buyeo is Jaon-gil, or Jaon Road, near the Gyuam ferry landing across the Baengma River. Gyuam was a thriving village when shipping was active on the river, but fell into decline with increasing urbanization, leaving many houses empty. The name Jaon, which means “to become warm on one/its own,” reflects the locals’ will to bring people back to the village. The strip of road is lined with small bookstores run by art and culture lovers carrying on the legacy of Shin Dong-yeop, craft workshops offering all kinds of items, and restaurants and cafés serving up dishes made with local ingredients. As you walk along Jaon-gil, taking in the easygoing atmosphere and gentle, relaxing scenery of Buyeo, the brilliance and glory of the Baekje Kingdom makes itself felt, and brings home the meaning of a change in perspective that makes familiar things look new.   Kwon Ki-bong Writer Lee Min-hee Photographer

Andong, the Spirit of Korea

On the Road 2022 WINTER

Andong, the Spirit of Korea Andong melds the past and present in complete harmony. Retracing the footsteps of ancestors, it becomes clear why the city is the epicenter of Korea’s spiritual culture. After a day of touring, hungry sightseers soon realize that Andong is also the birthplace of many dishes that capture the hearts of foodies today. .   At the entrance to Hahoe Village is a placard that reads, “I will never forget the day in 1999 when Queen Elizabeth II visited Andong.” The queen, who had been invited to Korea by the then President Kim Dae-jung, expressed her desire to see whatever is the “most Korean.” The answer was Andong, the capital of North Gyeongsang Province. It is where the essence of the Korean spirit can be found, embedded in the largest number of UNESCO World Heritage sites in Korea, and indeed all over the city. Upon arriving in Andong on her 73rd birthday, Queen Elizabeth was escorted by actor Ryu Si-won to Damyeonjae, a gracious old traditional house where Ryu was born as the 13th-generation descendant of Ryu Seong-ryong, a famous civil official of the mid-Joseon Dynasty. There, a Korean-style birthday meal was laid out for the queen, which included Andong noodles, pressed meat slices, braised meat, soup and Andong soju. The queen also attended a performance of the Hahoe Byeolsingut Talnori, a masked dance-drama based on community rites native to Andong, as well as a demonstration of preparing gochujang (red pepper paste) and kimchi. When she visited Chunghyodang (House of Loyalty and Filial Piety), the head house of the Pungsan Ryu clan, she surprised everyone by taking off her shoes and stepping inside in her stockinged feet, in accordance with Korean etiquette. In front of Geungnakjeon (Hall of Paradise) at Bongjeong Temple – the oldest extant wooden building in Korea, erected in the early 1200s during the Goryeo Dynasty – the queen placed a stone at the very top of a cairn as people around her watched anxiously, hoping the whole stack would not collapse. Onlookers explained that placing a stone on the stack was a way of making a wish. CONFUCIAN HEREDITY To properly understand the city of Andong, we need to recognize that Confucianism was the DNA underpinning the 500-year-old Joseon Dynasty. As soon as the state adopted Confucianism as its guiding ideology, certain attitudes and practices were born that are considered quintessentially Korean. They included a male-centered social structure and deference to one’s elders. Today, Korean Confucianism remains alive in Andong in its original form, preserving the legacy of Yi Hwang (pen name: Toegye, 1502-1571) and Ryu Seong-ryong (pen name: Seoae, 1542- 1607), who were both born in Andong and became leading figures of the Yeongnam School of Neo- Confucianism. The starting point of any exploration of the city has to be Hahoe Village. Hahoe is a well-preserved traditional clan enclave. It is designated as Important Folk Material No. 122 and home to two national treasures, four other designated treasures, and eleven folk materials. The village’s name means “water flowing in winding fashion,” and refers to the way Hwacheon, the upstream part of the Nakdong River, flows around the village in an “S” shape that is reminiscent of the red and blue Taegeuk symbol in the center of Korea’s national flag, or of a lotus blossom floating on water. That makes Andong an auspicious place since ancient times, in geomantic terms. Old Korean villages look very similar, but Andong is particularly appealing because it is not just a huge outdoor museum where time seems to have stopped, but a living community where residents tend to their daily routines as they mingle among tourists. As you walk around reading the name boards of the old houses such as Hwagyeongdang (House of Harmony and Respect) and Yangjindang (House of Truth Cultivation), you might see milk delivery bags hanging on the front gate, or young radishes and lettuce planted neatly in the adjacent fields. Not far from Hahoe is Byeongsan Seowon, a Neo-Confucian academy that is dedicated to Ryu Seong-ryong. Seowon were private educational institutions where the country’s finest minds gathered to teach and learn. The disciples of Ryu Seong-ryong gathered at Byeongsan Seowon and the disciples of Yi Hwang at Dosan Seowon, also located in Andong. Byeongsan Seowon is considered one of the most beautiful Confucian academies in the country. Its architecture gracefully complements and enhances the surrounding natural environment. Mandaeru, an elevated pavilion at the academy’s entrance, offers exquisite views of the wide Nakdong River below and the academy’s eponymous mountain, Byeongsan (Mt. Byeong), across the way. Dosan Seowon is on a grander scale than Byeongsan Seowon. During his later years, Toegye Yi Hwang built a village school called Dosan Seodang and taught there. After his death, his disciples built Dosan Seowon around the school. The school and the Confucian academy remain on the same site today in honor of Yi Hwang’s great learning. Stepping through the main gate into Dosan Seowon, on the left is the dormitory named Nongunjeongsa, where Yi Hwang’s disciples lived and studied. Further to the back is Jeongyodang (Hall of Classical Teachings), a lecture hall with views over the tranquil scenery of Andong, where scholars gathered for discussions and large meetings. At the Seonbi Culture Training Center, a two-day course is offered to learn about and experience the life of a Confucian scholar, or seonbi. This popular class provides opportunities to dress in the typical Confucian scholar’s robes; explore the Confucian academies, the head house of Yi Hwang’s family clan, and Yi Yuk-sa Literary Museum; and stroll along Toegye Meditation Road under the soft moonlight. A photo of Queen Elizabeth II when she visited Andong in 1999. Arriving in the city on her 73rd birthday, she sat down to a traditional Korean birthday meal, explored Hahoe Village and Bongjeong Temple, and watched a performance of Hahoe Byeolsingut Talnori. ⓒ ANDONG-CITY Gosanjeong, a pavilion built by Geum Nan-su (1530-1599), a scholar of the mid-Joseon Dynasty and a disciple of Yi Hwang. It sits beautifully in its natural setting and is a prime example of a Joseon pavilion. GOURMET CITY The atmosphere of markets is a good way to measure a city’s vitality. Andong has several large markets, including Gusijang, or the “old market.” This is a famous foodie paradise with its galbi alley lined with restaurants selling beef short-rib dishes, jjimdak alley packed with braised chicken eateries, and Mammoth Bakery, an old local institution. For food lovers, Andong is a revered place for traditional food. Even several days would not suffice to sample enough dishes. Think kalguksu, a soup with wide, flat hand-made noodles, is too ordinary? Try Andong guksi, made with thinner noodles that seem to be quivering on top of the soup. The only downside is the danger of overeating, because the soft noodles go down so easily. An indispensable dish for drinkers is gukbap,literally meaning “soup and rice.” It is almost always eaten with alcohol, or in the morning after a night of drinking. It claims an important place in Korea’s culinary culture, and the Andong version, filled with seasonal radish and Korean beef, is a favorite with people of all ages. With so many clan head houses in Andong, ancestral rites were (and are still) frequently held, giving rise to the custom of taking food leftover from the ritual table and mixing it all together in a bowl with sauce to make goldongban. Today, it is more commonly known as bibimbap. Later, restaurants began to prepare the same foods found on ritual tables so that customers could eat bibimbap at any time. When not eaten after a rite, this meal is called heotjesatbap, which means “not real ritual food.” Another famous dish of the city is Andong jjimdak. When the craze for yangnyeom chicken (fried chicken coated in a sweet and spicy sauce) hit more than a decade ago, the merchants of Andong’s old-style chicken alley had to find a competitive response. They created jjimdak, chicken braised in spicy, salty seasoning with thick glass noodles and vegetables, which spread throughout the country. Salted mackerel is also an Andong specialty, the result of the ancestors’ wisdom of preserving and transporting fish to this inland city far from the sea. While it is easy to spend days enjoying the local food without getting tired of it, young chefs in Andong also offer some completely new creations featuring traditional ingredients, for instance Andong mackerel pasta or salted mackerel burgers. The wonderful thing about the city’s old markets is that they are not stuck in the past but blend old and new in interesting ways. After a good meal, the natural course is to stroll along Woryeong Bridge, or Bridge of the Moon’s Reflection. On a dark night, the story of “Won’s mother” resonates like the light spreading on the Nakdong River. Nearby the wooden bridge, built in modern times, a letter was found written by “Won’s mother,” a Joseon Dynasty woman, that is full of regret, longing and resentment for her husband, who died before their child was born. For couples, it is a story to ruminate on while cruising the Nakdong River on one of the little moon-shaped boats. The area around the bridge is now dotted with all kinds of accommodation, including new hotels and hanok resorts filled with traditional houses. There are also theme parks like Zootopium and Confucian Land, offering an entirely different type of entertainment and mood to the quiet elegance of the old houses. Byeongsan Seowon, a Confucian academy built in 1572 in honor of Ryu Seong-ryong, is considered the epitome of Korea’s Confucian architecture. It was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List with eight other Confucian academies in 2019 in recognition of its architectural beauty and harmony with its spectacular surrounding landscape. The Hahoe Mask Museum opened at the entrance to Hahoe village in 1995. It houses 250 Korean masks, including those used in Hahoe Byeolsingut Talnori, a masked dance-drama performance handed down in the village, as well as 250 masks from around the world. Gusijang, the old market area located in the center of Andong, has an alley filled with more than 30 restaurants serving the original taste of Andong jjimdak, one of the signature dishes of the city. The pavilion on Woryeong Bridge, the longest wooden bridge in Korea, provides a wonderful view over Andong Dam. On the water, tourists relax on colorful “moon boats” or traditional sailing boats. OLD AND NEW Not long ago I visited Las Vegas. I felt as if I had seen the rise and fall of a once dazzling city. The Volcano Show and Fountain Show were the same as ever, but they had the desolate air of a tired middle-aged person seen from behind. Caesars Palace and the Bellagio Hotel, once the epitome of bright lights and splendor, also seemed exhausted, although the city was still filled with tourists. When I think about Andong in comparison, there is something fresh about the changing face of this ancient Korean city. More than 20 years ago, there was no ticket booth or village shuttle bus, or any other form of convenience, but since then, the village has been completely reorganized to accommodate easy walking tours. The Hahoe Mask Museum, located some way before the village entrance, is like an appetizer before the main course. It is decorated with the smiling Hahoe masks (National Treasure No. 121) that Koreans are so familiar with, as well as various masks from around the world. Moving rather than standing still, discovering new stories, and making improvements – these struck me as characteristics not only of Andong but Korea. In the city, old stores passed down for generations are found among trendy new restaurants, and old houses, in danger of being submerged when the Andong Dam was constructed, were moved and given new life as modern hanok hotels. That Korea is a place that never sleeps can be interpreted in different ways, but to me it points to the power that has driven this small East Asian country to become the world’s tenth-largest economy. In Andong, tradition is alive and astir.   Baek Young-ok Novelist Lee Min-heePhotographer

Three Takes on Gangneung

On the Road 2022 AUTUMN

Three Takes on Gangneung Simply calling Gangneung a coastal city does not really do it justice. It is the home of progressive literature and the only mother and son in the world to appear on banknotes. And it is where the fragrant aroma of coffee permeates the air. On my first trip to Gangneung, located in Gangwon Province on Korea’s east coast, my younger sister and I played on the beach at Gyeongpodae, burying each other’s shoes in the sand and eventually losing them. Jeong Cheol (1536-1593), a politician and writer of the Joseon Dynasty, once described the coast as “white silk spread out for ten li” [one li = 500 meters]. I remember stamping my feet and staring at the waves, unable to find our shoes buried somewhere in the endless stretch of sand. It was near dusk. I gave up and stayed barefoot all evening.The warm sand tickled my feet. The sensation remains a vivid memory.   The mid-Joseon poet Heo Nanseolheon (1563-1589) was renowned for both her literary talent and beauty. Perhaps because of her unhappy family life, she mentions the desire to depart this world and become immortal in 128 of her 213 known works. THE PROGRESSIVE Gangneung was the birthplace of Heo Gyun (1569-1618), author of “The Tale of Hong Gil-dong” –considered the earliest Korean novel written in the Korean , Hangeul – and his sister, the artist and poet Heo Nanseolheon (1563-1589). Heo Gyun was born into a noble family. Well-educated, he held various government posts, but as a progressive liberal who displayed books on Catholicism and advocated the removal of Confucianism in social and political activity, he became an outsider of Joseon. He dreamed of an ideal society called Yuldoguk, where everyone was equal, as depicted in his novel. “I have an upright character and cannot stand by and watch when others do wrong, and I cannot bear the stupidity of vulgar scholars; it makes my stomach turn,” Heo Gyun said. He was repeatedly dismissed from and reinstated to government positions, and often exiled for his involvement in political feuds. Eventually, he was accused of treason and executed. Perhaps most striking about Heo Gyun was his insight into his sister’s talent. Grieving over her early death at the age of 27, he combined her works into an anthology of poems. This was an extremely rare endeavor during the Joseon Dynasty, and Heo Nanseolheon’s poems first gained attention in China, not her homeland. The Heo Gyun and Heo Nanseolheon Memorial Park has a pine tree grove comparable to that around the three royal tombs of Gyeongju. The trees are numbered, and near No. 529 is a sign for a road named Gangneung Bau-gil. “Bau” is the local dialect term for “bawi,” or rock. Coincidentally, Bau is also the name of a Babylonian goddess who could heal a dying person with her bare hands, which is why some consider the road a healing road. Bau-gil is a magnificent road. It covers 280 km across 17 sections, connecting all parts of Gangneung, north, south, east and west — from Daegwallyeong to the coast, and from Okgye to Jumunjin. One of the bridges on the road has a statue of Hong Gildong, an outlaw who led a peasant army during the Joseon Dynasty, and a nearby monument inscribed with Heo Nanseolheon’s “Bamboobranch Poem” By the streamside in Gangneung is our house. In running water outside the gate I wash silken garments. In the morning I tie up the boat Wistfully watching the ducks fly away in pairs. After reading the poem, I soon realized that the large modern building beside the field of reeds was the ARTE MUSEUM Gangneung. “There’s no hotter place right now for taking photos!” says one review. This museum, specializing in immersive media art exhibitions, especially beloved by millennials and the Generation Z crowd, is located next to the memorial park. The absence of a line at the entrance is deceptive. Inside, the museum is crammed with visitors. The hands of all the people taking pictures with their smartphones inside the dark gallery look like an art installation. The hundreds of photos on my phone tell me that the entrance fee was well worth paying. ARTE MUSEUM Gangneung is the third immersive art media space in the ARTE MUSEUM series to open, following those on Jeju lsland and in Yeosu. “THUNDER,” one of the first exhibitions presented at the museum, simulated being in the middle of a lightning strike. ⓒ ARTE MUSEU Coming to this state-of-the-art place after visiting Heo Gyun’s birthplace, the words “old and new” come to mind. The light and sounds of the videos seem to come right up in front of them, eliciting surprised looks. It looks like performance art. Walking through the media art presentations, I find myself behind a waterfall crashing down in front. But emerging from the museum, I was astonished to realize that the vast body of water at the end of the bridge was not the sea. It was Gyeongpo Lake, which is actually a lagoon, a feature that is formed when the sea pushes the sand to create an embankment that traps water. The world is at its most beautiful when seen at a walking pace. It is only when you are walking slowly that you notice the scenery that you miss when driving or running. Seeing the butterflies and beetles flying around beautiful Gyeongpo Gasiyeon Wetlands, or the shade and the long shadows that waver according to the time of day – this is a gift you that you can’t enjoy during everyday life, but while taking slow steps on a leisurely respite. At Gyeongpo Prickly water lily Wetland, the once-endangered prickly water lily has been successfully revived and now forms dense growth. A trail has been made between the swamps, which attract water creatures such as otters and migratory birds. BLACK BAMBOO What would be one of the major symbols of a nation? Some that come to mind are Canada’s maple leaf, Brazil’s samba, or France’s Eiffel Tower. For the United States, the U.S. dollar, a global currency, is instantly recognizable. The 100-dollar bill is the largest denomination, and on the note is a picture of Benjamin Franklin, a founding father. So, who graces the 50,000 won note, Korea’s biggest denomination? None other than Shin Saimdang (1504-1551). Five historical figures appear on Korean banknotes. Among them, one is the country’s most famous thinker and one-time prime minister, Yi I (1536-1584), known by his pen name Yulgok, and another is his mother, Shin Saimdang. It is the only case in the world where a mother and son separately grace a nation’s currency. Since Yi I was selected for the 5,000 won note in 1972, Ojukheon, the house where he was born, has appeared there with him. The word “ojuk” refers to a bamboo variety with black bark, and the black bamboo growing in the house’s yard earned Ojukheon its name. In 1996, the residence was restored to its present state at the behest of the government. When it was incorporated with the Gangneung Municipal Museum in 1998, an exhibition featuring the history, culture, and historical sites of Gangneung was installed there, attracting 80,000 to 90,000 visitors annually. At the entrance leading to Ojukheon, people are standing about taking photos in front of the monument commemorating the mother-and-son banknotes. One couple takes out a 50,000 won note and a 5,000 won note, and holds them up as they pose for the camera. Walking around the birthplace of a famous person is like walking inside that person’s mind. After rain, the black of Ojukheon’s roof tiles and the green of the surrounding forest take on a deeper color, which seems to have a soothing effect on the visitors walking around, while the sound of the black bamboos swaying in the wind chases the heat away. Ojukheon, the birthplace of Shin Saimdang and her son Yi I, is one of the oldest extant private homes in Korea. Portraits of mother and son grace the 50,000 won and 5,000 won banknotes, respectively. ⓒ Shutterstock The name Ojukheon, is a compound of “o,” meaning “black,” and “juk,” meaning “bamboo.” It was inspired by the black bamboos surrounding the house. CITY OF COFFEE The origin of Gangneung’s coffee strip is a coffee vending machine that was installed in the fishing village of Anmok in the 1980s. Word spread among visitors to Anmok that the coffee from that particular machine was particularly good. Then more vending machines sprouted up along the road in front of the beach. The owners of the machines prepared the coffee powder mixes in their own special way and stuck detailed explanations on the front of the machine. Then, between the dozens of vending machines, cafés began to appear, eventually forming the famous coffee strip of Gangneung that even foreign tourists seek out today. The Gyeongpodae area was designated as Gyeongpo Provincial Park in 1982. Gyeongpo Beach, known for its beautiful backdrop of pine trees, white sand and the blue waters of Gyeongpo Lake, is the largest beach on the east coast. For Koreans born in the 1980s, Gangneung was known for Gyeongpodae and its beaches, but for young adults the city is known for its coffee. In a small city of just over 200,000 inhabitants, there are currently around five hundred cafes. One of the main reasons for the fame of Gangneung coffee is Park Ichu of the Bohemian Roasters café. Park Ichu’s name is permanently etched in Korea’s coffee history, because he was the first in Korea to roast fresh beans by himself. The level of roasting dictates coffee’s taste and aroma. As people learned how to savor coffee not only for its taste but also its aroma, Park Ichu’s coffee grew famous. Park opened his first cafés in Seoul’s Hyehwa and Anam neighborhoods. Then, in 2021, he suddenly moved to Gyeongpodae in Gangneung. Relocating to the provinces rather than opening another branch in Seoul was a rather radical choice. The way in which an individual choice can have a butterfly effect and change the character of a whole city has always fascinated me. In the way that leafy Portland, Oregon, became an alternative for people tired of complicated city life in places like New York and Los Angeles, for Park Ichu Gangneung was the perfect city to embrace him. Now, when people go to Gangneung, it is almost obligatory to stop by a coffee shop to buy some beans and take pictures in front of a big roasting machine. They also stop by Coffee Cupper, a museum where they can explore the history of coffee and look at the different varieties of coffee trees. It has become our daily routine to drink sweet mix-coffee to stay awake at night when working overtime, black coffee on the way to work in the morning, and a latte when feeling drowsy or hungry during the day. Koreans’ love of coffee has made it the country with the most cafés in the world compared to the number of cities. In Gangneung, that daily cup of coffee has created a new culture and a new city.

In Search of Solace

On the Road 2022 SUMMER

In Search of Solace For many who come to Korea, teaching English is a brief stop on the road to something else. For Christopher Maslon, it became permanent. But he also thrives in art, his original pursuit, and dabbles in other areas, always ready to add to the things he loves to do. © GEOJE CITY When I heard the cherry blossoms were already in full bloom in the south, my heart, frozen throughout the winter, began to melt. I thought of a certain coastal road on Geoje Island and hurriedly packed, propelled by the thought that the thick tunnel of flowers might shed all its petals before I arrived. I was in my car before sunrise and relieved to have a large cache of music for the road. The GPS informed me that the drive from Seoul would take about four and a half hours – six if I stopped at rest stops. Of the songs on my playlist, I’m especially fond of “Gran Torino.” It’s about driving a Gran Torino, a U.S. muscle car of the 1970s, to console a tired and lonely heart. Engines hum and bitter dreams grow Heart locked in a Gran Torino It beats a lonely rhythm all night long The song is part of the soundtrack of the movie of the same name. The protagonist, played by Clint Eastwood, is a grumpy, aloof Korean War veteran whose trauma makes him wary of letting people get too close. When I listen to it, it feels like my car has also become a Gran Torino, comforting me while taking me to Geoje Island.   With the completion of the Geoga Bridge, the travel distance between Busan and Geoje Island was dramatically reduced from 140 km to 60 km and the travel time from 2 hours and 30 minutes to 30-40 minutes. © gettyimagesKOREA Pow Memorial Park Geoje Island lies between the city of Busan to the east and Tongyeong to the west. Although an island, it has long been accessible by land thanks to Geoje Bridge, completed in 1971, and beside it the New Geoje Bridge, completed in 1999. Both lead to Tongyeong. In 2010, an overland road to Busan also opened when Geoga Bridge, an 8.2-kilometer bridge-tunnel, was built to the east. The bridges connecting Geoje to Tongyeong span a narrow waterway famous for its many reefs and fierce currents. In 1592, during the first Japanese invasion of Korea, Admiral Yi Sun-shin lured the enemy here and off Hansan Island. His outnumbered warships moved into crane wing formation and routed the Japanese fleet. But no matter how thrilling this sounds, there is a more sobering side to Geoje Island: its history as a holding pen for tens of thousands of war prisoners. In September 1950, the Incheon Landing led by General Douglas McArthur bisected North Korean forces, reversing the tide of the Korean War. With their supply lines cut off and their ability to repel counterattacks crippled, North Korean soldiers ended up in a 12,000 square meter prisoner-of-war (POW) camp in the Gohyeon and Suwol districts of Geoje Island. The camp began operation in February 1951 with 150,000 North Korean soldiers, 20,000 Chinese Communist soldiers and 3,000 militia soldiers. Among them were 3,000 female prisoners. The Historic Park of Geoje POW Camp memorializes those captured in war. As soon as I stepped inside, I came across the text of the Geneva Convention, a set of treaties that established international legal standards for humanitarian treatment during wartime. The 1949 agreements in particular define the basic rights of prisoners of war. They were applied for the first time during the Korean War. The exhibition hall at the entrance of the Historic Park highlights efforts to protect the human rights of the North Korean POWs. It is said that the meals served at the camp were much better than the food given to soldiers at the frontline. Still, regardless of how well the POWs were treated, their agony was inescapable as the war grinded on. Locked up with no idea of how far from home they were, they spent their days as forced laborers. Sometimes, for propaganda purposes, they were forced to act as if they were content despite their circumstances. Displays of the barracks, uniforms and other materials that shed light on the lives of prisoners make the Historic Park of Geoje POW Camp an educational site and tourist attraction of Geoje Island. The movie “Swing Kids,” set in 1951 during the Korean War, follows a tap dance team that is assembled to perform at the largest prisoner-of- war camp in South Korea, on Geoje Island. © NEW A photograph of prisoners at the Geoje camp doing a folk dance inspired Choi Suchol’s 2016 novel “Dance of the POWs” (Porodeului chum ). On the same subject, theater director Kim Tae-hyung staged the musical “Ro Gi-su” (2015), later adapted by the movie director Kang Hyoung-chul into the movie “Swing Kids” (2018). Did the prisoners learn, practice and perform the dance in the photograph of their own volition? In one photo taken in 1952 by Werner Bischof, a member of the internationally renowned photojournalist group Magnum, the prisoners are wearing unusually large masks as they dance in their camp. Presumably, they wanted to hide their identity to avoid attacks by fellow prisoners who felt betrayed, or perhaps to protect themselves and their families from eventual government persecution in North Korea if the photos were seen. This theory is reflected in “Dance of the POWs,” “Ro Gi-su” and “Swing Kids.” Pebbles that resemble black pearls blanket beaches on Geoje Island. The sound of the water washing over the pebbles when the tide goes out (described as “jageul jageul”) has been selected as one of the top 100 natural sounds of Korea. © gettyimagesKOREA One might ask what more could be done for people who once pointed their guns at “our side.” Coming from a generation that has never experienced war, I have nothing to say on such a sensitive issue. I can only hope with all my heart that war and similar threats and violence will disappear from Earth. I turned toward nearby Chilcheon Island, where most of the Korean fleet was destroyed in 1597. It was the only major defeat of the Korean Navy among countless battles against Japanese warships. Before the battle, Admiral Yi Sun-shin had been removed as naval commander because he disagreed with King Seonjo over strategy. Standing in the yard of the memorial hall, I sighed, then sighed again as I looked down at the water. Some 20 minutes away is Okpo, the site of Korea’s first naval victory against the Japanese under the command of Admiral Yi during the Imjin War. A truce was declared after the initial invasion in 1592, and then a second invasion in 1597. The next year, Japanese forces finally withdrew from the Korean peninsula. My Gran Torino continued on to the next traces of war.   Haegeumgang, an island that features two rocky peaks, is found within Hallyeohaesang National Park. The sun rising over Lion Rock is a spectacular sight that appears only in March and October © gettyimagesKOREA Mongdol Beach Geoje Island is home to many beaches covered with pebbles (mongdol ). One of them is the 1.3-kilometer long Hakdong Mongdol Beach on the southeast side of the island. This beach has no sand. Instead, it’s covered with smooth “black pearl” pebbles of various shapes and sizes. Pounding ocean waves eroded and fragmented large rocks into pebbles the size of a fist. If one paused to consider how long it took for small pebbles to be created, life would seem to last for no more than a fleeting moment. Hakdong Mondol Beach, shaped like a flying crane, is the most famous pebble beach on the island, attracting a steady stream of tourists all year round. Wherever the waves wash over the smooth black pebbles, they glitter in the sun, looking exactly like black pearls. Covering the beach, they rub loudly against each other whenever the seawater rushes in. In this fashion, the raw power of the waves is scattered. Unlike sandy beaches, pebble beaches protect residents who live by the seaside. According to local folklore, all the pebbles on the beach disappeared one day when the waves were particularly fierce. Only sand was left, and the residents trembled with fear at this strange occurrence. But the next day, like magic, all the pebbles were back. This little tale speaks of how much the locals love and treasure the black pebbles, and indeed, efforts are made to stop tourists from pocketing one or two of them as souvenirs. To that end, the account of an awakened American teenager appears on the signboards on every pebble-covered beach: In the summer of 2018, a small package arrived at the eastern branch office of Hallyeohaesang National Park. Inside were two black pebbles and a letter. A 13-year-old American girl had taken the two pebbles home as a souvenir, but felt they should be returned. “My mother found out later and taught me how long Mother Nature had labored to make these beautiful stones. So I decided to give back the pebbles to their rightful place,” the girl wrote in a letter of apology. Her sincerity is sure to have greater impact on would-be souvenir hunters than any warnings of fines or penalties. After strolling along the beach I boarded a ferry. I wanted to see Haegeumgang, an island consisting of two rocky peaks whose name means “diamond of the sea.” Sticking straight up in the middle of the water, the island was designated as Scenic Site No. 2 back in 1971. Of Korea’s 129 nationally designated scenic sites, only 15 are marine or insular sites, and two of these are found in the Geoje district of Hallyeohaesang National Park – an indication of the great beauty of the coastal scenery around Geoje Island. Near Haegeumgang is Sinseondae Observatory. A long stairway off the coastal road leads to the viewing site, overlooking cobalt waters and rocky terrain layered in blue and yellow.   Yang Dal-seok (1908-1984), famous for his idyllic, innocent paintings of the Korean countryside, was called the “painter of cows and herders.” Cheongma Memorial Hall was built at the birthplace of Yu Chi-hwan, a leading figure in modern Korean literature. The building houses records related to the life and work of the poet, whose penname was Cheongma, meaning “blue stallion.” Artist of Geoje Island With the glories of Haegeumgang engraved in my memory, I returned to port and hit the road again – this time to meet Yang Dal-seok (1908-1984), one of Korea’s earliest Western-style painters, and Yu Chi-hwan (1908-1967), a major name in Korean poetry. Is it possible that the two artists turned into the towering rocks of Haegeumgang after they died? I first headed to Seongnae, the hometown of Yang Dal-seok. Entering the village filled with murals that replicate his paintings was like entering a storybook. Many of these paintings feature cows and shepherds, with children happily running around though their pants are falling down, clearly revealing their buttocks. Some are doing handstands while others are bent over and looking at the world from between their legs. Their behavior and expressions are expressed comically. Cows are lazily chewing on grass and the whole world is green and fresh. Everything is peaceful. How could the world painted by Yang be so lyrical and beautiful? Orphaned at a young age, Yang spent part of his childhood as a servant at his uncle’s house and was familiar with cows. One day, he lost a cow that he had taken out to pasture and received a severe scolding. That night, he scoured the mountains. When he finally found the cow, he held onto one of its legs and wept. Perhaps painful memories such as this turned him into an artist who dreamt of a world without fear or worry. At Cheongma Memorial Hall I encountered another artist born on Geoje Island who had dreamt of paradise. Real life may have been grueling for the poet Yu Chi-hwan, but in his works, he never lost hope or determination. His most famous poem, “The Flag” (Gitbal), describes a fluttering banner. It contains a phrase that every Korean has heard at least once: “the voiceless outcry,” used in every literature class as an example of paradox. Another of his poems, “Geojedo, Dundeokgol,” extolls his birthplace. It is inscribed on a monument that stands in the yard of the memorial hall. Over several lines, the poem brings to life the harsh conditions of his hometown, but in the last line, the poet vows not to abandon it. He promises “to pass after living a benevolent life, tending the fields at sunrise.” It reveals a persona that was unusually easy and tolerant. Yu’s penname was Cheongma, or “blue stallion,” which in my imagination roams the fields and mountains of the island. Engines hum… My footsteps began pointing toward home. Singing to myself as I always do, I asked myself what kind of promise I could make. Do I have even a pebble’s worth of ease and tolerance? Engine humming, my Gran Torino gave me the answer: don’t be tied down even by such questions.  

Yeongju, The Starting Point

On the Road 2022 SPRING

Yeongju, The Starting Point Yeongju is steeped in history and legend. Despite its moderate size, the mountainous town encompasses the sources of two large rivers and the birthplaces of many famous historical figures. It is also home to a storied log bridge, a mysterious “floating rock” and two UNESCO World Heritage sites. Museom Village in Yeongju, North Gyeongsang Province lies at the intersection of two streams that flow down Mt. Taebaek and join the Nakdong River. Before a modern bridge was built in 1979, this single log bridge was the only passage to the outside world from the village, which is surrounded by waterways on three sides and mountains at the back. When I opened my map, I imagined what residents of Yeongju centuries ago might have believed: that the world ended where they lived. The small city sits at the top rim of North Gyeongsang Province, which occupies the southeastern part of the Korean Peninsula. The northern edge of Yeongju abuts Gangwon Province, where Mt. Taebaek stands tall, and its western side shares a long border with North Chungcheong Province, where the high peaks of Mt. Sobaek are clearly visible. On the city’s south side, a steady stream of arrivals once came ashore, laden with tales of distant places. I thought about the waterway that carried them northward to Yeongju – the Nakdong River, the longest river in South Korea. The geography section of the “Annals of King Sejong” from 1454 says, “The sources of the Nakdong River are Hwangji on Mt. Taebaek, Chojeom in Mungyeong County and Mt. Sobaek in Sunheung. The waters join and when they reach Sangju, they form the Nakdong River.” Sunheung was the former name of the Yeongju area. Moreover, Yeongju was the wellspring of several small tributaries of the Han River, which flows east to west and bisects Seoul. As the source of two of the most important rivers in the southern part of the Korean Peninsula, Yeongju in pre-modern days was, in effect, the beginning and end of the world to Koreans. A mountainous town with a population of 108,000, Yeongju is a two-hour drive from Seoul. The last stage of the trip includes the Jungnyeong (Bamboo Pass) Tunnel, a 4.6 km passageway through Mt. Sobaek, connecting North Chungcheong Province with North Gyeongsang Province. Museom Village was formed around the mid-17th century as its fertile land attracted inhabitants. It now has some 40 old traditional houses and 100 residents. It is a clan community, most of its residents belonging to two clans, the Kims hailing from Yean and the Parks from Bannam. CROOKED BRIDGE I headed for Museom Village in the southern part of Yeongju. Water flowing from two streams – Yeongjucheon and Naeseongcheon – merge and surround the village on three sides, making it look like an island. Museom means “an island floating on water.” The village, established in the mid-17th century, is filled with hanok, or traditional Korean houses, which were once occupied by local elite families. In terms of geomancy (pungsu in Korean, feng shui in Chinese), the topography here supposedly emits high energy, blessing its residents to achieve their goals. This belief probably arose from the broad, fertile fields which ensured self-reliance. Among the village’s old traditional houses are 16 well-preserved examples of typical late Joseon Dynasty homes. The village is not widely known to the general public, so it still maintains the quiet atmosphere of a traditional scholarly village. In modern times, the village came to be known for a single log bridge, laid across the stream to serve as the only passage to the outside world. Indeed, it did until the Sudo Bridge opened in 1979. In the past, the monsoon season stirred up the stream enough to destroy the bridge regularly, so it had to be rebuilt many times. Today, the log bridge stretches some 150 meters, but instead of being straight across, it is shaped in an enigmatic big S. The beautiful and narrow span is loved by people of all ages and has appeared in television drama series, including “The Tale of Nokdu” (2019), “My Country” (2019) and “100 Days My Prince” (2018). Not surprisingly, walking across the bridge is on the checklist of an endless stream of visitors, myself included. Up until the end of the 19th century, Museom had some 500 residents in 120 households. The village produced numerous academics and Confucian scholars as well as five independence fighters who made significant contributions to the nation’s liberation from Japanese rule in the 20th century. Dirt paths along stone walls lead to the Museom Village Exhibition Hall. In one corner of the yard is a monument to the poet Cho Chi-hun (1920-1968). There is no Korean student who has not recited Cho’s poem, “The Nun’s Dance” (Seungmu), from their textbooks. Museom was the hometown of Cho’s calligrapher wife, Kim Nan-hee (1922-); he left his poem, “Parting” (Byeolli), engraved here on a large rock in her handwriting. The poem is about a shy, new bride tearfully watching her husband leave for a long trip, from behind a big pillar in their home. I tried to imagine the young husband in the poem crossing the log bridge one precise step at a time. Suddenly, I felt I could explain why the bridge had an S-shape. It forced a slow pace, prolonging sad farewells. DYNASTY BUILDER Not far from the city center is the childhood home of Jeong Do-jeon (1342-1398), a scholar-official who was credited with laying the cornerstone of the Joseon Dynasty by establishing its ruling ideology and system of government. Jeong’s home came to be called the Old House of Three Ministers (Sampanseo Gotaek) because the family produced three government ministers (panseo) during the Joseon period. Though the house has been relocated from its original site due to flooding, it still emanates an aura of power from an influential family. The Rock-carved Buddha Triad on a high streamside cliff overlooking Seocheon exemplifies the sculptural style of the Unified Silla period (676-935). These Buddhist images had been severely vandalized by the time they were discovered, but they still emanate a strong spirit. In the city center, I looked around Yeongju Modern History and Culture Street, then walked up a gentle slope and arrived at Sungeunjeon (Hall of Worshipping Grace). This is a shrine for the portrait and spirit tablet of King Gyeongsun (r. 927-935), the last ruler of Silla. It is said that the king stopped at Yeongju on his way to Kaesong to surrender to Goryeo. Having just met a revolutionary thinker who opened the doors for one dynasty, I now encountered a tragic king from another, who had to offer his country to a rising monarchy to spare the lives of his subjects. Today, Yeongju commemorates the king’s love for his people and honors him as a deity. Early morning the next day, I tackled the long, uphill path and steep 108 steps to Buseok Temple, or the Floating Rock Temple. The temple is listed as UNESCO World Heritage along with six other historic temples, including Tongdo Temple in Yangsan, Bongjeong Temple in Andong, Beopju Temple in Boeun and Seonam Temple in Seungju, under the name “Sansa, Buddhist Mountain Monasteries in Korea.” Buseok Temple is especially popular in the autumn, when leaves change color to turn the area into a gorgeous tapestry where sought-after apples are dispensed, pairing with Yeongju’s well-known beef and ginseng. The legendary rock is found beside the temple’s main hall, named Muryangsujeon, or the Hall of Infinite Life. Legend has it that the rock was used by a guardian dragon to float above followers of different beliefs and scare them from attempting to interfere with the temple’s construction. Buseok Temple was built in 676 during the golden era of Silla, when it defeated rival states Goguryeo and Baekje and successfully unified the Three Kingdoms. At the time, Buddhism received widespread support as the state religion, as evidenced by the scale and importance of Buseok Temple. But 250 years later, Silla would give way to a new dynasty. When I finally arrived in front of the Hall of Infinite Life, one of the oldest wooden structures in Korea, thoughts of the rise and fall of dynasties vanished. I faced the beautiful hall, where Amitabha, the Buddha of the Western Pure Land, resides. Indeed, there on the left was the famous buseok, the floating rock. “Treatise on Choosing Settlements” (Taengniji), an 18th-century ecological guide, says that a rope can pass cleanly underneath the rock. The scientific explanation is that the rock fell away from the granite behind the temple and landed on smaller stones. The fallen rock does not appear to be floating, nor does it touch the ground. To me, the rock looked like a large table that could seat some 20 adults. The bell pavilion of Buseok Temple offers a panoramic view of the temple grounds and the Sobaek Mountain Range in the distance. The temple was built shortly after Silla unified the Three Kingdoms in 676. In 2018, it was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List along with six other Buddhist mountain monasteries across Korea. Buseok Temple has two famous pavilions, Anyangnu (Pavilion of Tranquil Nourishment) and Beomjongnu (Bell Pavilion), located on the central axis of the temple compound leading up to the main hall. The Bell Pavilion’s bronze bell, wooden fish, cloudshaped metal plate and drum are struck twice a day. REPEATING CYCLE In the afternoon, I crossed Maguryeong (Horse and Foal Pass), a hill in the direction of Gangwon Province, and visited the mountain village of Namdae-ri, where the tragic boy king, Danjong (r. 1452-1455), stayed on his way to exile after being deposed by his uncle, King Sejo (r. 1455-1468). This is where the southeastern source of the Han River is located. The trail around Sosu Seowon has hundreds of red pine trees, ranging from 300 to 1,000 years old. Founded in 1542, Sosu Seowon was Korea’s first private Confucian academy. It was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2019, along with eight other Confucian academies across Korea. At Seonghyeol Temple, a quiet Buddhist temple secluded in the mountains, there is a beautiful ancient building named Nahanjeon, or the “Hall of the Arhats.” Its doors feature exquisite carvings of lotus flowers and petals, cranes, frogs and fish. Later, I returned to the neighborhood beneath Buseok Temple and visited Sosu Seowon, one of the nine private Confucian academies of the Joseon Dynasty that are on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Sosu Seowon, also known as Sosu Academy, was the first Confucian academy that received a royal charter. It houses the spirit tablets of some of the country’s greatest Confucian scholars, including An Hyang (1243-1306), who first spread Neo-Confucianism on the Korean Peninsula. The more I looked around Yeongju, the more I admired its uniqueness. It was home to the man who laid the foundations of a new dynasty and a place that revered the last ruler of a disappearing kingdom; it cultivated numerous scholars and politicians at its prestigious Confucian academy and is where the traces of a young king who was banished and killed in a power struggle can still be found. I felt like I was watching one huge cycle repeating itself. The writings of another famous son of Yeongju, the scholar and patriot Song Sang-do (1871-1946), prompted me to think deeply about origin and return. His book, “Essays of Song Sang-do” (Giryeo supil), published in 1955, describes in remarkable detail the life of Koreans under Japanese colonial rule. Giryeo was Song’s pen name. Every spring, beginning in 1910, the year Japan colonized Korea, Song left on long journeys around the country to meet bereaved families of patriots and collect newspaper reports and other records about related incidents. He risked death if found with those materials, so he twisted his notes and clippings into the ropes that he used as backpack straps. Late in the year Song would return, worn out and haggard. To be the origin of everything and, at the same time, the “other shore,” or the entrance to nirvana, to which all things can return – this is the spirit entrenched in Yeongju. On my last morning in Yeongju, as I prepared to return to Seoul, I was still thinking about Song. I decided to take the old road over Jungnyeong. As I drove on the steep, narrow and winding mountain road, I wanted to feel the immense and resolute spirit of the scholar who would have left Yeongju and crossed the rugged passageway on foot. When I reached the top of the ridge, I asked myself whether I was returning to Seoul or leaving Yeongju. I was sure I would be back again, so I decided to tell myself that I was just starting out.

Sweet Taste of Mixed Time

On the Road 2021 WINTER

Sweet Taste of Mixed Time Gunsan, a harbor city on the west coast, transformed from a poor fishing village into an international trade hub amid the turmoil of modern history. The unvarnished image of Gunsan, where so many stories still seem to simmer below the surface, steadily resists the speed at which cities change so easily today. In the early 1900s, foreign culture, most notably that of Japan, was introduced to Korea through Gunsan, just upstream from the West Sea [Yellow Sea]. The exposure has left indelible reminders, some of them sobering. But that buttresses Gunsan’s uniqueness, making it a popular tourist destination. When I set out for Gunsan, in North Jeolla Province, I thought of a bowl of hot jjamppong, the spicy, red noodle soup that fuses Chinese, Japanese and Korean cuisine. It contains a robust mixture of ingredients, including stir-fried vegetables, seafood and meat. When Koreans talk about an especially vivid potpourri, it’s dubbed “jjamppong.” Fittingly, Gunsan is noted for its version of the dish. The bullet train from Seoul doesn’t cover the entire 200 kilometers southwest to Gunsan. Transfer is needed at Iksan, a major railway junction, to a slow, old train that travels the last 20 kilometers. The passenger cars creak and rattle, the peeling paint slips a little more, and a peculiar odor suggests a multitude of years of passenger service. It could have been a time machine that I had imagined. Perhaps that explains how I decided on the first place to see in Gunsan, where past and present are suffused in a montage of historical reminders and enduring memories. Founded by a Japanese monk in the early 20th century, Dongguk Temple is the only Japanesestyle Buddhist temple left in Korea. Construction materials were brought from Japan, and the original form of each building, including the main hall, remains well preserved today, with its decidedly austere rather than ornate aura still intact. This building served as the main wing of the Gunsan Customs House from 1908 to 1993, processing seabound exports. It is now an exhibition hall. One of the three major examples of Western classical architecture in Korea, the building is a state-designated piece of Modern Cultural Heritage. TIME TRAVEL In its halcyon days, trains regularly ran through Gyeongamdong Railroad Town, carrying wood and paper between Gunsan Station and a paper factory. The railroad tracks are no longer used by the city’s 270,000 inhabitants, and when the trains came to a standstill, so did time in this urban village. Remaining here today is a display of school uniforms from the 1960s and 1970s, along with snacks and sundry knickknacks from bygone days. I lingered for a good while, walking along the quiet tracks. The scent of vanishing time tickled the end of my nose, threatening to bring on tears. Leaving Gyeongamdong, I decided to refuel with a bowl of jjamppong before embarking on a proper exploration of Gunsan. The port city boasts a roster of restaurants known countrywide for this specialty noodle dish. I chose Binhaewon. Housed in a 70-year-old building that has been designated as cultural heritage, its jjamppong is tame enough for palates that don’t embrace spicy food. Combined with the old-fashioned atmosphere of the place, the soup with its mellow flavor from fresh seafood provided deep comfort for the soul – the flavor of time boiled down to its essence. My stomach now comfortably full, I wanted to feel the energy of the past, when Gunsan anchored the most productive rice-growing region in the nation and bustled with commerce and trade. I headed for Modern History Culture Street, which abounds with examples of early modern architecture. As I looked around the Gunsan Modern History Museum, the Modern Architecture Museum and the Modern Art Museum, I found the drive and vitality of the city still alive and realized that things left by time and history are imbued with a unique creative quality. How can something worn and faded by time still be beautiful? Slivers of architectural beauty can be seen in the vintage aura of old streets that have endured through history. I had vague glimpses of the traces of attempts to achieve beauty rather than just focus on function. The building with the most elegant architectural charm is the old customs house, where rice was once collected for transport on the Geum River, which runs through Gunsan before spilling into the West Sea [Yellow Sea], a short distance away. The warehouses were first built centuries ago during the Goryeo Dynasty. Gunsan had remained a small fishing village for a long time. But it was a natural choice to be turned into a port when Japan began to pressure Korea for rice. The fertile Honam Plain surrounding Gunsan yielded harvests that saturated warehouses, and the city began to handle foreign trade at the dawn of the 20th century. Many Japanese resided here during the colonial period and influenced the city’s development. This is the old house of Keisaburo Hirotsu, a Japanese merchant who became wealthy by operating a dry goods shop in Gunsan. It is a typical Japanese samurai house of the 1920s, with its original form well preserved. The large garden and the grand exterior give an idea of the lifestyle of the wealthy Japanese upper class in those days. DISPARATE HARMONY The Gunsan Customs House was designed by a German, built by the Japanese with red bricks from Belgium, and has a Romanesque window, English-style entry and a Japanese-style roof. Surely this must be a prime example of jjamppong architecture in Gunsan. Standing in front of the building, I felt a range of emotions. Today, Gunsan remains an active player in international trade and continues to handle rice shipments. Americans, not the Japanese, are the largest foreign presence. The U.S. Air Force operates an air base here. In this section of Gunsan, called Gyeongamdong Railroad Town, there are a myriad of foods and games from the past that trigger sweet memories. These days, lines form for dalgona, the honeycomb candy featured in the Netflix blockbuster series “Squid Game.” Not far from Modern History Culture Street is Dongguk Temple. At a glance, its ambience differs from that of other Korean temples. Since it was built during the colonial period, the architectural style is obviously Japanese and the unadorned yet stylish main hall reflects Japanese minimalism. The small temple sits comfortably, with a bamboo forest at the foot of Mt. Wolmyeong as its backdrop. In the courtyard is Sonyeosang, literally “statue of a girl” but more commonly known as the “Statue of Peace.” The statue is a reminder of the imperial Japanese military carrying away young Korean women and girls to serve as sex slaves. During the colonial period, Japanese landowners exploited sharecroppers in the Gunsan region in order to take as much rice as possible. Eventually, the sharecroppers rose up in revolt. As I spent time in the hushed courtyard of a religious facility that has endured the storms of history, I felt a strange sense of liberation. Though ironic, it was perhaps because all the futile hatred of the past had vanished. Maybe this was why all the things left intact at the temple seemed in harmony to me rather than looking awkward. The same feeling came over me at the Japanese-style house in Sinheung-dong. Although it’s just a private home once occupied by a wealthy Japanese businessman, this is also a lovely place that has weathered the tempests of time. The picturesque garden and the inner wing with large windows ref lect human desires for beauty. In the nearby Wolmyeong-dong area, the worn bricks, narrow alleyways and rusted metal gates vaguely recall another era. In the face of those remaining traces of turbulent history, I thought about the meaning of things that stay the same over a long period of time. It surely is comforting to observe the silence of the things that don’t change in a world that keeps changing at the speed of light. Dazzled by time travel, I headed for Korea’s oldest bakery, Lee Sung Dang. It opened during the Japanese occupation, catering to Japanese patrons who were fond of Western bread and baked goods. I tried the bread filled with red bean paste (danpatppang) and vegetable bread (yachaeppang), the bakery’s signature menu items, and relished the tastes of past and present blending on my palate. All over Gunsan, several layers of time intermingle. A nation in demise, Japanese occupation, postwar modernization, contemporary high-tech and auto manufacturing – the way these eras mix and yet remain intact is peculiarly inspiring. RECORDS IN LITERATURE “What a hapless country this is! What has it ever done for me? Why are they trying to sell my land, which the Japanese left behind when they left? You call this a country?” “If you wait, the government will make sure that you’re properly compensated.” “Forget it! From this day on, I’m a citizen without a country. Your country should work for the good of its people so that you can put your trust in it and want to live in it. But seizing your land and selling it off now that we’ve regained independence – can you call this a country?” This is a modern paraphrase of the last scene from the novel, “Story of the Rice Paddy” (Non iyagi), by Chae Man-sik (1902-1950), published in 1946. From among Chae’s many works, this passage suddenly came to mind when I stood in front of the Chae Man-sik Literary Hall. It was probably because of the special sense of history that Gunsan consistently imparted to me. The Chae Man-sik Literary Hall has collected more than 200 works written by Chae over some 30 years, including novels, plays, critiques and essays. A Gunsan native son, Chae had great skills for satirically depicting the condition of Korean society before and after national liberation from Japanese rule. “Story of the Rice Paddy” is one of his most important works. It describes the ordeal of a family living through the turbulent modern era, faced with chaos in the wake of liberation. The protagonist’s father, falsely accused of joining the Donghak Peasant Revolution (1894), is threatened by the authorities: “Do you want to be punished or will you give up your land?” He gives up more than half of his paddies. Under the ensuing colonial rule, the paddies he retained aren’t enough to support the family, so the protagonist sells these to a Japanese – an action considered treacherous by other Koreans. After liberation, he expects the Korean government will recover his land and return it to him. Instead, the government sells it. Through this character who has never had a country that he could call his own, Chae portrayed the confusion of the transitional period and the injustice and mistrust felt by ordinary people. Chae was one of the few Korean literary figures who really “repented” having sided with Japan. A fter liberation, he wrote the novella, “Transgressor of the Nation” (Minjok-ui joein), serialized in 1948-1949, in which he acknowledged and regretted his pro-Japanese activity. Their outstanding literary value aside, this is how Chae’s works have survived as modern cultural heritage of his hometown. All over Gunsan, several layers of time intermingle. A nation in demise, Japanese occupation, postwar modernization, contemporary high-tech and auto manufacturing – the way these eras mix and yet remain intact is peculiarly inspiring. Before returning to Gunsan Station, I stopped at Jungdong Hotteok, which has been selling syrup-filled pancakes for 70 years. Transmitted to Korea from the Qing Dynasty of China, hotteok are thin pancakes filled with syrup. Most hotteok are pan-fried, but at this shop they are baked in a brick oven, so they are sweet but not greasy. Pleasantly nourished and relaxed, I turned my footsteps toward the railroad tracks to return to reality. That clean, sweet taste of being left inside history. It was the taste of Gunsan. Trains no longer rumble along the 2.5 km stretch of track in Gyeongamdong Railroad Town. Instead, tourists dressed up in old school uniforms walk along the tracks, lined by old houses and shops, recalling their student days. Walking around the city, tourists will often come across lyrical murals adorning winding alleyways. While fancy photo zones are set up at famous tourist attractions, many simple murals evoke warm feelings The Chae Man-sik Literary Hall, dedicated to the life and work of one of Korea’s major writers of the 20th century, has an exhibition room, a library and an audio-visual room, as well as a literary-theme walking trail and park outdoors. Jjamppong, a spicy noodle soup fusing Chinese, Japanese and Korean cuisine, is a signature dish of Binhaewon. The Chinese restaurant is also known as a shooting location in “The Thieves” (2012), one of the highest-grossing films in Korean movie history. At Jungdong Hotteok, the sweet pancakes are stuffed with a syrupy mixture of Gunsan’s famous glutinous barley, black beans, black rice and black sesame seeds, tasting light and savory.

Gyeongju: Ancient Capital, Open Museum

On the Road 2021 AUTUMN

Gyeongju: Ancient Capital, Open Museum A city in which historical sites are interspersed among scenic parks and trendy 21st century establishments, Gyeongju, once the capital of the Silla Kingdom (57 B.C.-A.D. 935), burnishes its reputation as a “museum without walls.” The 13.4-meter-high, three-story stone pagodas at Gameun Temple site in Yongdang-ri, Gyeongju, are the tallest pagodas of the Unified Silla period. Overlooking the sea east of Gyeongju, these pagodas are all that remain of the ancient temple, which was built after King Munmu of Silla unified the Three Kingdoms in the seventh century. The twin pagodas are designated National Treasure No. 112. As I eagerly set out for Gyeongju, the cradle of Korea’s Buddhist culture, I recalled Jack Kerouac (1922-1969), the iconic American writer and pioneer of the Beat Generation who embraced Buddhism. I would once again be borrowing the name of his seminal 1957 novel, “On the Road.” Gyeongju was the capital of the Silla Kingdom, which expanded by subduing rival states to rule two-thirds of the Korean peninsula between the seventh and 10th centuries. In its halcyon period, Gyeongju was the fourth-largest city in the world, with an estimated one million inhabitants, and its grandeur was comparable to that of Constantinople (Istanbul), Changan (Xian, China) and Baghdad. Indeed, apart from the Roman Empire and the dynasties of Egypt, there are few countries in human history that have lasted for as long. Silla adopted a broad perspective, building up an unmistakable global profile. Its ruling elite actively engaged with China, which traded with Arab and European nations via the ancient Silk Road. This explains the Roman glass that has been excavated from some Silla tombs. In Korea, which has seen much of its territory repeatedly obliterated by imperialism and war, we can only be thankful that vestiges of Silla’s resplendent civilization remain today in the southeastern corner of North Gyeongsang Province, some 70 kilometers north of Busan. Beyond the antechamber and corridor are the most celebrated works of ancient Korean Buddhist sculpture: a rotunda that represents a lotus blossom, a seated Buddha image, and various Buddhas, bodhisattvas and devas carved into the walls. For preservation purposes, visitors can only appreciate the marvelous Buddhist pantheon from behind a glass wall. © National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage, Han Seok-hong Global Profile It had been a long time since I last visited this ancient city. So, like a foreign explorer riding in by boat, I approached Gyeongju from the eastern shore via the ruins of Gameun Temple. The name “Gameun” reflects the idea of being “moved by grace,” specifically the grace of King Munmu (r. 661-681), who completed the unification of the Three Kingdoms. He began construction on the temple in hopes of blocking Japanese invaders with the mercy of the Buddha, but died before its completion. In his will, he asked for his ashes to be buried in the East Sea – and indeed, his wish was fulfilled – so he could return as a dragon to protect the country. Today, the site of the temple isn’t steeped in hype the way other historic spots in and around Gyeongju are. It may even seem rather neglected. There are no entrance fees, nor was any supervisor or manager in sight during my visit. The ruins include little more than a pair of three-story granite pagodas and the underground remains of some temple structures, but the majestic grandeur of the pagodas is arresting. In ancient times, the sea licked just below Gameun Temple, underneath the floor of the main hall. There was a channel for the king-turned-dragon to enter and leave. Who knows whether the two pagodas protected the dragon, or the dragon protected the pagodas? The sarira reliquaries discovered inside the pagodas when they were dismantled for restoration are replete with the delicacy of Silla’s metal art. These objects, now housed at the National Museum of Korea in Seoul, are unbelievably beautiful. It’s as if these treasures, once ensconced deep inside the pagodas to stay invisible, laid the groundwork for the glorious Silla civilization. They have a modesty that’s luminous but outwardly inconspicuous, teaching us that true beauty needs no packaging – it shines on its own. The seated Buddha statue of Seokguram Grotto, in Gyeongju, is considered a masterpiece of Buddhist art. Seokguram is a granite cave temple built on the mid-slope of Mt. Toham in the eighth century, with Greek and Roman architectural styles introduced to Korea via the Silk Road. © National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage, Han Seok-hong   Enigmatic Splendor Wanting to see more of Silla’s mysterious beauty, I headed straight for the heart of Gyeongju. Ahead was Mt. Toham, which blocks the sea winds that blow toward the city. Four kilometers eastward, overlooking the East Sea, was Seokguram, a mountainside grotto hermitage of Bulguk Temple. Seokguram and Bulguk Temple are undisputed choices when exploring the beauty of Gyeongju. In 1995, they were among the first five Korean sites inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. In 2000, an additional series of five historic areas around Gyeongju also became World Heritage sites. Seokguram, completed in 774, is the acme of Buddhist art and architecture. Reminiscent of the Pantheon in Rome, the grotto chapel is a stunning testimony to the architectural exchange that existed between regions and religious beliefs in ancient times. The area is covered in white granite that was unsuitable for making into a cave and carving images upon, so an artificial grotto was built by assembling hundreds of pieces of granite. This differentiates Seokguram from Buddhist grottos in India or China, and imparts its distinctive beauty. The grotto features scores of skillfully carved figures representing its Buddhist tenants. Past an arched entrance, antechamber and narrow corridor lies a rotunda housing a Buddha that stands 3.5 meters high, with a realistic, serene appearance. Sitting cross-legged in meditation on a raised, lotus-engraved pedestal, this image of Sakyamuni is recognized as a masterpiece of Buddhist art. Above his head is a dome, also in lotus design; its construction is another example of Greco-Roman influence. Much of the grotto is now covered for protection. What remains visible can only be seen in passing in a long queue, but I found it enough to be awestruck by the sublime beauty of the sculptural art. The expressions seemed to instantly burn themselves into my mind’s eye. Bulguk Temple is located about 15 kilometers southeast of Gyeongju. Known as the “Temple of the Buddha Land,” its history traces back to 528. It is a head temple of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism, the largest Buddhist sect in Korea, and is classified by the Korean government as Historic and Scenic Site No. 1. It is also regarded as the prime jewel of the pinnacle of Buddhism in Silla. In the temple’s main courtyard, Dabotap (Pagoda of Many Treasures) and Seokgatap (Sakyamuni Pagoda) face the main hall, Daeungjeon (Hall of the Great Hero). Discovered inside Seokgatap was a copy of the Great Dharani Sutra, which demonstrates the quality of Silla’s woodblock printing. The pagodas, registered as National Treasures, and the elaborate stone terraces forming the foundation of the temple grounds are the only original structures that remain. The rest has been reconstructed over the ages. Bulguk Temple at the foot of Mt. Toham features a famous pair of pagodas – Dabotap (Pagoda of Many Treasures), seen in the foreground, and Seokgatap (Sakyamuni Pagoda) – standing in the main courtyard. The temple and Seokguram Grotto represent the apex of Silla Buddhist art. In 1995, they were among Korea’s first five sites inscribed on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List. Daereungwon is a sprawling complex of some 125,400 square meters, containing 23 tumuli, the largest group of ancient tombs in Gyeongju. Located in Hwangnam-dong, the heart of the ancient city, its mesmerizing aura transcends time and place. Are life and death in harmony or disharmony? How should we understand the chasm between modernity and antiquity? Such ubiquitous distinctions alone make Gyeongju sufficiently unique. The Divine Bell of King Seongdeok, made in the eighth-century Unified Silla period, is the largest extant bell in Korea. It is 3.66 meters high, 2.27 meters in diameter around the mouth, 11-25 centimeters thick, and weighs 18.9 tons. The sound tube at the top, unique to Korean bronze bells, helps create a deep, resonant sound. The surface of the bell is decorated with exquisite patterns, including flying apsaras. The Dong-ni Mok-wol Literary Museum commemorates two famous Gyeongju natives, novelist Kim Dong-ni (1913-1995) and poet Park Mok-wol (1916-1978), who left indelible marks on modern Korean literary history. The museum offers tours to their birthplaces and sites that served as backgrounds of their works Recreation of novelist Kim Dong-ni’s workspace. The museum devotes separate galleries to Kim and Park, where their respective images and personal items are exhibited. One of Kim’s manus displayed in the recreation of his workspace. Books, Burials and Bell Leaving the temple overwhelmed by the scale and depth of time and space reflected in the ancient relics, I came upon the Dong-ni Mok-wol Literary Museum, which honors novelist Kim Dong-ni (1913-1995) and poet Park Mok-wol (1916-1978). Both were Gyeongju natives and bequeathed beautiful works. At the museum, I recalled the inion on the Divine Bell of King Seongdeok, a great temple bell crafted in 771 during the Unified Silla period, which includes this line: “The people of those days disdained riches and respected literary talent.” I heard a poem being recited in the gallery dedicated to Park Mok-wol. The lyricism of the poet reveals a concentrated insight into life and nature, echoing the English poet William Wordsworth. In this way, cultural artifacts are not the only treasures of Gyeongju. In addition to the museum, visitors can take tours that include the authors’ birthplaces and locations that inform the background of their works. Leaving the literary museum, I took refuge in Cheonmachong, or the Tomb of the Heavenly Horse, at the Daereungwon tumuli park. My toes suddenly felt cold. I was so engrossed with the wonderful sights that I’d failed to notice that my feet were wet from the rain that had fallen all day. The park includes 23 mounded tombs that resemble small, grassy hills. In and around Gyeongju are several hundred tumuli, 35 of which are presumed to be the tombs of Silla kings. I had imagined the inside of the royal burial chamber would be either dreary or frightening and mysterious, but it was beautiful. When I thought of the labor that had been mobilized to build the tombs and the care put into conducting funeral rites with all the ornate trappings, I marveled at the diligence of these ancient people. My next destination was the downtown Hwangnam-dong area. The disparity between the ancient tumuli and the urban strip felt slightly disorienting. It was tantamount to recognizing life right from where I had just perceived death. Are life and death in harmony or disharmony? How should we understand the chasm between modernity and antiquity? Such ubiquitous distinctions alone make Gyeongju sufficiently unique. To wrap up my short visit, I headed for the Divine Bell of King Seongdeok, which is housed in a pavilion on the grounds of the Gyeongju National Museum. This was the enigmatic piece I had most wanted to see. Though half abraded, that exquisite line in the inion on the bell, memorializing a great king by saying that people during his reign disdained riches and respected literary talent, seemed vividly projected, like a hologram. The bell emits a sublime sound with a deep resonance; Silla’s bell makers appear to have fully understood the theory of wave mechanics. The powerful reverberations might even be the ceremonial roar of a dragon, amazed at its own brilliance, as it protects the numerous sites and artifacts that exemplify the beauty of this city. Gyeongju remained an important regional stronghold during the dynasties that followed Silla. I felt the city’s old splendor and glory, as well as the beauty entrenched in something that has endured through the ages. I also felt the greatness of the hearts and minds of those who endeavored to safeguard their cultural heritage.

A Promenade in Seochon

On the Road 2021 SUMMER

A Promenade in Seochon In Seocho, one of Seoul's oldest neighborhoods, a maze of centuries-old homes and rich artistic heritage sustain a charming urban oasis of calm and reflection. Peering through the ancient byways of Seochon,you can see both Gyeongbok Palace, the offi￾cial royal residence of the Joseon Dynasty (1392- 1910), and Cheong Wa Dae, the presidential office, at the foot of Mt. Bugak. It’s this proximity that led to Seochon becoming the centuries-long enclave of officials and schol￾ars, who walked to the palace. Seochon means “west village,” in reference to its direc￾tion from the palace. It hugs the foot of Mt. Inwang, once a defensive barrier when Seoul was a walled city. Amid the COVID pandemic, people who have learned to enjoy sol￾itary hikes up Mt. Inwang love to stand at the top and lose themselves in the view of Seoul spread below. Seochon is now one of Seoul’s greatest attractions, along with the hanok village Bukchon, meaning “northern village.” Both places are filled with charming alleys lined with traditional-style homes, more than a few of which are hundreds of years old. Many are now stylish cafés, boutique coffee shops and inns. Inside one repurposed hanok is Daeo Bookstore, the oldest secondhand bookshop in Seoul, a few minutes away from Gyeongbok Palace subway station.More importantly, both the Seochon and Bukchon areas have an ambience that’s all about art and culture. The narrow alleys of Seochon have the warm-heart￾ed air and ease of Prague’s Golden Lane and the feel of the back alleys of Paris’s Montmartre. Besides the repurposed hanok, there are galleries where scenes from the ink-and￾wash landscapes of the Joseon era now grace the canvas￾es of 21st century artists. A popular rendezvous site here is Tongin Market, where scores of vendors sell everyday wares and eateries beckon with all kinds of delicious food.The market is famous for its lunch-box program; diners exchange a set of coins that are used to buy a wide array of homemade side dishes at little cost. The greatest pleasure of touring the alleys is that your eyes are opened to unfamiliar new paths as you get lost every now and then. Suseong Valley in Ogin-dong, a picturesque haven famous for its shady trees and the sound of cool running water, has been a long￾time favorite of artists. The Seoul City Wall was constructed in the 14th century just after the foundation of the Joseon Dynasty. The defensive barrier stands some 5-8 meters high and is about 18.6 kilometers long. The western section lies on Mt. Inwang with Seochon nestled below. Celebrated Residents The eponymous museum of artist Pak No-soo opened in 2013. Pak lived at the house for some 40 years and donated some 1,000 artworks to bepreserved and displayed. In 1941, Yun Dong-ju, a student at Yonhee College (forerunner of Yonsei University), lived at the home of novelist Kim Song (1909-1988), where hewrote some of his major poems, including “A Night for Counting the Stars.” A plaque marks where the house was located. Kim Mi-gyeong takes her ink pens to rooftops and other high places to draw street scenes of Seochon. After a 20-year career as a journalist, she went to live in New York in 2005 and returned in 2012 to settle in Seochon, where she is now known as the “rooftop artist.” Seochon is where many princes were born and raised, including Prince Chungnyeong, the third son of King Taejong, who would later become King Sejong (r. 1418-1450), the most famous Joseon monarch. He instituted the Korean and a great deal of scientific research. King Sejong’s third son, Prince Anpyeong (1418-1453), lived in Suseong Valley in Ogin-dong, the uppermost part of this neighborhood and the setting of “Dream Journey to thePeach Blossom Land,” painted by An Gyeon in 1447. This famous painting depicting the Daoist utopia was inspired by the prince’s dream. Another royal resident of Seochon was King Sejong’s second-oldest brother, Prince Hyoryeong (1396-1486), a man of great learning and virtuous character. He escapedfrom power politics when his younger brother ascended the throne, and was revered for his efforts to revive Buddhism. In the same neighborhood, Jeong Seon (1676-1759)painted “Clearing after Rain on Mt. Inwang” (1751), a mas￾terpiece from the cultural heyday of Joseon, the age of theso-called “true view” realist landscapes. This celebrated art￾work, designated Korea’s National Treasure No. 216, was part of the private collection of Lee Kun-hee, the late chair￾man of Samsung Group. It was donated to the state after the business leader passed away in 2020. In the mid-Joseon period, Seochon began to be inhabit￾ed mostly by jungin, literally the “middle people,” a class of lower officials and technicians who ranked between nobility and commoners. Technical workers who ranged from inter￾preters and doctors to eunuchs who served in the palace made their home in the area, which encompasses today’s Ogin-dong, Hyoja-dong and Sajik-dong. Bukchon was a neighborhood of literati, and the old houses there are rela￾tively large and grand. In contrast, the traditional houses of Seochon are small and modest, which explains the web-like spread of numerous little alleys. With Joseon’s demise in 1910 and the subsequent Jap￾anese occupation, young artists began to move to Seochon. Major figures included the poets Yi Sang (1910-1937),Yun Dong-ju (1917-1945) and Noh Cheon-myeong (1911-1957), as well as novelist Yeom Sang-seop (1897-1963).Among their neighbors were painters Gu Bon-ung (1906-1953), Lee Jung-seop (1916-1956) and Chun Kyung-ja (1924-2015). Ironically, Seochon is where the luxurious Western-style estates of infamous pro-Japanese figures Lee Wan-yong (1858-1926) and Yun Deok-yeong (1873-1940) were also located. The passage of art and culture through time, as it is enjoyed and understood in the present, may be compared to a chick breaking out of the darkness in its shell and being born into the world. Like the baby bird chipping away at the hard shell surrounding it in order to live, the artists of mod￾ern Korea plunged themselves into creative activity as an escape from the poverty and despair of the times. I set out to discover their traces in Seochon. Tongin Market was originally established in 1941 as a public market for Japanese residents in the nearby areas. The market developed into itscurrent form after the Korean War when the population of Seochon expanded rapidly. Following the Fragrance First, I headed to Poet’s Hill in Cheongun-dong to see Cheongun Literature Library and Yun Dong-ju Litera￾ture House. From the hill, I could see the old city center of Seoul spread out below, and in the distance, beyond Nam￾san Tower and the Han River, the 123-story Lotte World Tower came into view. The hillside Cheongun Literature Library consists of several lovingly restored hanok, but Yun Dong-ju Literature House is a concrete structure with an iron door somewhat like a prison. And yet, with its love￾ly outdoor garden café, it ranked high on the 2013 list of “Korea’s best contemporary architecture,” selected by theDong-A Ilbo and the architecture magazine, Space. In the video room, the life of Yun Dong-ju unfolds on the concrete wall – the time he spent composing poetry in a boarding house in Seochon; his imprisonment in Fukuoka,Japan for participating in anti-Japanese activities by Korean students; and his eventual death there of mysterious caus￾es in February 1945, months before Korea’s national liber￾ation. A journal entry reads, “I hide away in a dark, small room unable to do anything but write poems, ashamed that I am unable to take up arms and fight. I am all the more ashamed as those poems come to me so easily.” Leaving the maze of alleys behind, I headed for the House of Yi Sang, the genius poet and novelist who died so young. This is a popular starting point for walking tours exploring the art and culture of Seochon. However, thehouse where Yi lived for 20 some years from when he was adopted at the age of three was rebuilt after his death. On display here are Yi’s original handwritten manus andother literary materials. From there, I walked in the direc￾tion of Suseong Valley and soon found Pak No-soo Art Museum, which exhibits the works of the modern artist whopainted coolly elegant landscapes. A little further up is the site of the house where poet Yun Dong-ju boarded as a uni￾versity student. Finally, I reached Suseong Valley, which could be called the end of Seochon. There, I ran into a woman sitting alone, wearing a mask and working on a drawing. It was KimMi-gyeong, Seochon’s acclaimed “rooftop artist.” Formerly a newspaper reporter with a 20-year career, she quit her job and in 2013 began drawing scenery around Seochon. From Mt. Inwang and from the rooftops of the hanok, Japanese-style houses from the colonial period and other dwellings around Seochon, Kim captures the urban land￾scapes of this old neighborhood that she considers to encap￾sulate an important aspect of the history of Seoul. In the early days, the locals would report her as “a spy making maps.” But now, her drawings can be seen on the walls of many stores in the neighborhood. The exhibition “Record of the Streets,” organized by the Korean Safety Health Environment Foundation, was held from April 30 to May 16, 2021 at Boan 1942, a multipurpose cultural venue. It featured some 80 photographs showing ways the COVID pandemic has changed society. Boan Inn, built in the 1940s, was a popular residence for many artists and writers. Having operated as an inn until 2004, it was recently turnedinto Boan 1942, where exhibitions, performances and other events are held. The greatest pleasure of touring the alleys is that your eyes are opened to unfamiliar new paths asyou get lost every now and then. Rescanning the Maze Rounding off my trip, I stopped by Boan Inn in Tongui￾dong, where painter Lee Jung-seop, poet Seo Jeong-ju (1915-2000) and other writers and artists often stayed. The original building has been preserved and transformed into an exhibition and cultural venue named Boan 1942. It was here that Seo and other poets created the coterie maga￾zine, “Poets’ Village” (Siin Burak), in 1936. Traces of the past can be found throughout the building. I welcomed the creaky wooden stairs and was glad that the closely packed, 1 cramped exhibition rooms retained their old charm. Choi Seong-u, who runs Boan 1942, dreamed of being an artist and went to France to study. He ended up studying art administration, and upon his return, turned the old Boan Inn into a multipurpose cultural center. He expanded the space by erecting a building next door, showing not only the works of experimental young Korean artists but also active￾ly pursuing international projects. Residents of Seochon have varied over several centu￾ries. But the thread binding them has always been art and culture, remaining palpable in the meandering alleys today. The greatest pleasure of touring the alleys is that your eyes are opened to unfamiliar new paths as you get lost every now and then. Sometimes, the alleys suddenly stop in dead ends, and as you turn and look back, you begin to think about the traces of your own life. On this outing to Seochon, I frequently looked back again and anew. Kwon Oh-nam has operated Daeo Bookstore since she opened it with her late husband in 1951, when they decided to use part of their traditional-style home as a book shop. It is now the oldest secondhand bookstore in Seoul, and also functions as a book café. Chebu-dong, a famous foodie haunt, attracts people of all ages who search for tasty food day and night. The small eateries are crowded together to form a veritable wall in a maze of alleys. Lee San-haPoet Ahn Hong-beomPhotographer
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