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Contemplations on ASEAN Culinary Culture 

The more you learn about ASEAN dishes, known for their varied and strong flavors, the more fascinating they become.

By Jang Jun-woo Chef and food columnist

Photograph National Geographic Traveler Korea

   The 10 ASEAN countries, which are made up of Mainland Southeast Asia and thousands of islands of varying size, are so different from one another that tying this region together under the name “Southeast Asia” may seem inadequate. Countries are distinguishable by their ethnicities, religions and languages, but another aspect by which to observe their differences are the countries’ respective food cultures. Now that Southeast Asian food is easily accessible in Korea, we know that Thailand’s pad thai and Indonesia’s mie goreng, while both noodle dishes, are not the same. In Viet Nam, rice noodles are served with a savory beef broth, but Malaysia’s laksa uses a broth that is both spicy and sweet. At first glance, ASEAN dishes may appear similar, but a closer look soon reveals that each country—and, indeed, the many regions within each country—has a unique culinary culture.  

   Such differences in culinary culture are accompanied by one trait that is common to the entire region: the use of many different, very strong flavors. A hot and humid climate makes the body lethargic and easily tired, which led to the generous use of spices to revive the appetite and a sophisticated regimen of cooking techniques that take advantage of the sweet-and-sour taste of tropical fruits. Another factor that significantly impacts culinary culture is geography. Due to their geopolitical location, ASEAN countries accumulated wealth since antiquity by engaging in transit trade between India and China. Chinese people use a wok to stir-fry several ingredients at once and used this technique as the basis for spreading their recipes for noodle dishes, soy sauce, and tofu-making throughout ASEAN. Arab and Indian merchants spread sweet desserts, skewered foods, and curries made with a mixture of various spices. These dishes had an especially significant influence on Europeans, who took to the seas starting from the 16th century to search for spices. Crops from the Americas were brought to the ASEAN region: many essential ingredients of ASEAN dishes that are easily found in these countries—namely, tropical fruits (guava, pineapple, avocado, papaya, etc.), cacao, tomatoes, peanuts, zucchini, corn, cassava, and peppers—are from South America. The vibrancy and diversity of ASEAN dishes is the outcome of the region’s climatic, geographical, and historical circumstances. The more you know about ASEAN food, the more you will come to appreciate its fascinating features.