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Bandar Seri Begawan is a city that was established between the 6th and 7th century CE. This city sat at the center of a maritime trade route that connected China and the Middle East, and sheltered trade ships and fishing boats sailing on the South China Sea. Bandar Seri Begawan’s original name was Bandar Brunei. In Malay, Bandar has the meaning of city, so Bandar Brunei means “the city of the river Brunei,” named after the river whose waters lap upon the city’s shores. In 1970, Bandar Brunei was changed to Seri Begawan meaning “honorable leader,” its name honoring Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien III, who helped secure Brunei’s independence.


The most famous destination for travelers in this city is the golden Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque. It is a modern Islamic mosque built in 1958 and designed by the Italian architect Rudolfo Nolli. It has a unique design that combines Italian Renaissance features with classical Islamic architecture. The design of the building shows Brunei’s devout Islamic faith, while simultaneously reflecting Bandar Seri Begawan’s identity as a modern, independent city. The splendid view from its marble minarets, the beauty of the golden dome, and the image of the mosque reflected in the artificial lake have become synonymous with Brunei Darussalam, replicated on countless postcards sold to awestruck tourists.

Many who visit Bandar Seri Begawan come here to take pictures of the mosque, enjoying a walk in the courtyard past its tranquil lake. But of course it remains a place of worship, and there is a strict etiquette to follow. Women should cover their hair and their bodies from their wrists to their ankles, while men should cover their legs. In the mosque, shoes and socks should also be taken off, and photography and filming is not allowed. One should always be respectful of the worshippers within, while your holiday snaps can always wait until you are safely outside. To the south of the mosque, floating atop the Brunei River, is the town of Kampong Ayer. It is a largescale floating housing complex home to over 13,000 people. Even following Bandar Seri Begawan’s modern transformation, many locals still prefer to live in floating houses. If you follow the wooden bridges between building after building, you will also find a mosque, a museum, various shops, and even a gym. This river-top village has everything the locals could ever need.

Kampong Ayer is connected to the mainland by a bridge, but water taxis are a popular means of traveling to nearby areas. These aquatic taxis are much like their terrestrial brethren. Prospective passengers stand beside the water, shake their hand at passing yellow boats and call “Taxi!” Taxis that run between floating houses are available for a single Brunei dollar (about US $0.60). You can even bargain with a water taxi driver to take you on an hourlong boat trip for 20–25 Brunei dollars.


If you want to experience Brunei Darussalam’s nightlife, local food, and everyday life all in one, you should visit a night market. Unlike many night markets of other ASEAN countries largely catered to tourist clientele, Gadong Night Market is a locals-centered market known for its calm atmosphere. Here you can taste local dishes such as stir-fried noodles and fried chicken dishes such as nasi katok and kebabs. Gadong market is open from 3 p.m. until midnight, and with Brunei representing one of the safest countries around, you can relax and enjoy a fabulous feast well into the night.


To many travelers Bandar Seri Begawan remains a city characterized by its calm and devout atmosphere, yet that does not mean it has less to offer than its more hectic neighbors. In fact, it is one of the region’s best-kept secrets. Brunei Tourism even branded the country as a “hidden jewel.” For just as you have to work to polish the shine of an uncut gem, a little effort is needed to discover the beauty of Brunei Darussalam. But with all the country has to offer, rest assured that you will be handsomely rewarded for your efforts.